Concrete Patio help needed

#1

kiddiedoc

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#1
We are planning a little "backyard upgrade" this spring/summer, and I have an existing concrete patio slab that is posing a bit of an issue. It's currently just broom-finished concrete, dirty in places, and I want to make it look nicer and coordinate with new pavers/rock/stamped concrete. It is poured all the way up to the door jamb level, so I can't add any thickness.

Does anyone have experience grinding down a slab like this so I can either coat it with Cool Decking or a fresh layer of concrete that can be colored or stamped (maybe in a plank-esque pattern)? Alternatively, I don't know if it could be taken down enough to maybe lay tile? I don't want it to be too slippery. Any other ideas are certainly welcome.
 
#2
#2
Is busting it up not an option? Then you could build a deck if you want to or poor t new one with more room on top of it for the tiles.
 
#3
#3
We had a small concrete slab off our back door, 6x6 I think it was. I rented a jack hammer and busted it up. I was worried about where it met the door/house but it wasn't an issue. Laid a 30x15 flagstone patio in it's place. Have since had a roof built over it with ceiling fans, lights, and tv. It was A JOB but glad I did it.
 
#4
#4
I know it’s possible to grind it down. Don’t know what all is entailed though
 
#5
#5
Seems like the man power involved in redressing the slab would almost be as labor intensive as just removing and starting over?
 
#6
#6
An old place of mine had an 8'x16' concrete slab out back that was in bad condition... roots from a tree were pushing up one side and causing water to pool right at the back door. I bought a sledgehammer and broke it up by hand. I just considered it my workout on those days, took a few days to break it all up and get rid of it, then I put in a deck in place.
 
#8
#8
The hardest part about grinding the whole patio down would be maintaining a uniformly level surface. You'd end up with lots of little ups and downs that may or may not be immediately apparent at a glance but would puddle in the rain.

You potentially could grind in a bevel for a few feet to get the needed drop at the threshold, but the existing patio would need to have enough slope falling away from the house such that the beveled portion still falls away also (you don't want water coming back to the house). For instance, if the existing patio falls away from your house at, say, a quarter inch per foot, you could grind down an eighth inch at the threshold at a one foot bevel and still be falling away enough to drain. And of course, the wider the bevel the less noticeable. Not sure what's the minimum slope at threshold per code but I doubt anyone would ever think to check.
 
#9
#9
Is busting it up not an option? Then you could build a deck if you want to or poor t new one with more room on top of it for the tiles.

I did check on that and the labor to jackhammer and haul off the concrete was multiple times the cost of installing new decking. It's about 30' long x 6' and 10' in different areas.
 
#10
#10
Low cost option, pressure wash then roll on a concrete stain. You can get the stain in any color you like. Finish with a low sheen sealer.
 
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#12
#12
Low cost option, pressure wash then roll on a concrete stain. You can get the stain in any color you like. Finish with a low sheen sealer.
Yeah, this is my "last resort" option. I would anticipate it looking disjointed/out of place adjacent to the new stamped concrete and pavers.
 
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#13
#13
Sand blast it in a checker pattern. Chalk it off with a chalk line in the pattern you want. Lay plywood over areas not to be sand blasted and then blast to your desired look. For a residential blaster, harbor freight has one perfect for this
 
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#14
#14
Yeah, this is my "last resort" option. I would anticipate it looking disjointed/out of place adjacent to the new stamped concrete and pavers.
If done properly, concrete overlay will match any new stamped concrete. You only need about 3/4 of an inch and no need to grind. The broom finish helps with adhesion. But you HAVE to get a reputable company to do the job correctly and permanently.
Still would be almost as cheap to remove the slab. I'll leave a link anyway.

There is also thin pavers to match most full size pavers, if you have the room.

And as others said, concrete removal isn't very much for a friend with a Bobcat and a nearby "fill needed".

Here's a link for overlay.Stamped Overlays - The Concrete Network
 
#15
#15
If done properly, concrete overlay will match any new stamped concrete. You only need about 3/4 of an inch and no need to grind. The broom finish helps with adhesion. But you HAVE to get a reputable company to do the job correctly and permanently.
Still would be almost as cheap to remove the slab. I'll leave a link anyway.

There is also thin pavers to match most full size pavers, if you have the room.

And as others said, concrete removal isn't very much for a friend with a Bobcat and a nearby "fill needed".

Here's a link for overlay.Stamped Overlays - The Concrete Network

The problem is that I don't have room for any overlay, as it is, without taking off 1/2" plus of concrete.

I did find a roll on product called Spreadstone by Daich, but reviews are few and far between.
 
#16
#16
I might know a guy

jones.gif


Sorry doc, couldn't help myself
 
#19
#19
The problem is that I don't have room for any overlay, as it is, without taking off 1/2" plus of concrete.

I did find a roll on product called Spreadstone by Daich, but reviews are few and far between.
If I'm understanding correctly your stamping some new concrete and laying pavers that butt up to your old existing pad? 1/2" is alot to take off. If it was me I would have some concrete polishers come out and give you quotes.

While you can't grind and polish like an indoor slab (would be slick outside wet) there is such a thing called Honing concrete. It is more for outdoor situations.

Honing uses a sealer that soaks in to the concrete and is very low maintenance. I think they should be able to add a skid-resistant additive. This additive can be applied in different sizes and amounts to achieve the desired level of slip resistance.

I'm sure they can stain it to match your newer project. Then add the skid resistant additive and seal it. Call some of the concrete polishing companys that has free quotes and see what they say.
 
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#20
#20
If I'm understanding correctly your stamping some new concrete and laying pavers that butt up to your old existing pad? 1/2" is alot to take off. If it was me I would have some concrete polishers come out and give you quotes.

While you can't grind and polish like an indoor slab (would be slick outside wet) there is such a thing called Honing concrete. It is more for outdoor situations.

Honing uses a sealer that soaks in to the concrete and is very low maintenance. I think they should be able to add a skid-resistant additive. This additive can be applied in different sizes and amounts to achieve the desired level of slip resistance.

I'm sure they can stain it to match your newer project. Then add the skid resistant additive and seal it. Call some of the concrete polishing companys that has free quotes and see what they say.
I like this direction. The more I look into it, the more difficult grinding it down appears. We used a company in Knoxville to dye, sawcut, and polish our old basement. I'll start with them.
 
#21
#21
I don't think there is any way to remove enough concrete to then come back and stamp. I would look at hiring someone to come in and remove the pad and re-pour and stamp if stamping is your thing. There are folks that have a jackhammer attachment for a bobcat that makes quick work of it. We took out a deck and poured a patio and stamped it a couple years ago and we love it.

Another option you may look at is having the surface polished and then you can tape it off and stain it in a tile pattern. It would be slick though when wet.
 
#22
#22
I don't think there is any way to remove enough concrete to then come back and stamp. I would look at hiring someone to come in and remove the pad and re-pour and stamp if stamping is your thing. There are folks that have a jackhammer attachment for a bobcat that makes quick work of it. We took out a deck and poured a patio and stamped it a couple years ago and we love it.

Another option you may look at is having the surface polished and then you can tape it off and stain it in a tile pattern. It would be slick though when wet.
Do remember an idea of what it cost to remove it? What size, and did it have rebar?
 
#25
#25
I'd guess around 175 SF.
I had the old patio removed here, probably twice that size built with huge stone and concrete poured around. Pergola over top so bobcat wasn’t a good option. The guy rented a walk behind skid steer and wrecked that stuff in a few hours. That was also what he used to do the digging for the new patio.
 

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