HVAC question

#1

volfanhill

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#1
I bought a new home about a year ago. It has a huge vaulted ceiling when you come in. Bc of this my upstairs is about 7 degrees warmer then the down stairs. It’s impossible to keep both floors at a comfortable temperature at the same time. Any advice?
 
#2
#2
I bought a new home about a year ago. It has a huge vaulted ceiling when you come in. Bc of this my upstairs is about 7 degrees warmer then the down stairs. It’s impossible to keep both floors at a comfortable temperature at the same time. Any advice?

The key is air circulation. Keeping your fan to "on" instead of "auto" will help. A lot homes like that will have two units because of this issue.
 
#3
#3
I bought a new home about a year ago. It has a huge vaulted ceiling when you come in. Bc of this my upstairs is about 7 degrees warmer then the down stairs. It’s impossible to keep both floors at a comfortable temperature at the same time. Any advice?

Heat rises. So it takes more to cool rooms with higher ceilings. Only thing I would say is upgrade to two units; one upstairs and one downstairs so it can be regulated.
 
#7
#7
Any chance I can just move the thermostat to a higher spot in the house?
It won't make any difference. It will be colder downstairs then, if it's comfortable upstairs. You will always have a temp difference.

You may see if an HVAC contractor thinks that zoning may help some. That is supposed to reduce air to some areas and add to others. Do you have a return with a filter upstairs going to the air handler also?


I had 2 rental houses that I had to add a second unit upstairs. It was always hot in the Summer until I did that.
 
#8
#8
Some tips...from an article.
As well, when I lived in Texas, I had two systems and I increased the size of the upstairs unit to ensure I had more BTUs than the builder wanted to install.


Air Conditioner Capacity
Check the cooling capacity of your air conditioner. Air conditioners are sold in BTU classes, typically based on the square footage of your room. If you have a high ceiling, that reasoning misses the mark. A room with a high ceiling has much more volume than a room with a standard ceiling height. An air conditioning unit one or two BTUs higher than what is recommended for your room based on square footage alone will cool the room more efficiently. If the air conditioner capacity is too low, the unit will cycle off too frequently and the room will not remain cool.

Condenser Location
Place your air conditioner condenser on the shadiest side of your home. If the unit is exposed to direct sun during daylight hours, it has to work harder, and therefore less efficiently. By shading it, you will use up to 10 percent less energy than if it was in the direct heat. Shade trees also keep the unit running cooler, but keep branches pruned several feet away from the equipment. Shrubs planted nearby will reduce cooling efficiency because the surrounding air can't flow as easily.

Ceiling Fans
Install ceiling fans to assist your home's air conditioning system. If your room is large, install more than one. Ceiling fans improve air circulation so there aren't competing hot and cold spots. Place them in the hottest areas of the room, such as near west-facing windows. Add an extension rod so the fan is not so close to the ceiling. The fan will do the most good at 8-to-10-feet above the floor. Extension rods are available in up to 8-foot lengths. A ceiling fan with wide paddles moves more air around the room and therefore cools the room more effectively.

Ventilation
In the summer, attic temperatures can reach as much as 150 degrees Fahrenheit, heating up the whole house. To lower the temperature in a room with high ceilings, install a whole house fan. Whole house fans are mounted in the attic with a shutter placed in the ceiling. When the weather turns cool at night, open the windows and turn on the fan. The shutter opens, and the fan draws in the cool air through the open windows. All the hot air gathered at the top of the ceiling and in the attic expels through attic vents. You control which room or rooms are cooled by deciding which windows you open. The outside air must be cooler than the inside air for maximum effectiveness. A whole house fan uses minimal electricity compared to an air conditioner. Turn it on at night when it's cool outside and you'll sleep comfortably.
 
#9
#9
Any chance I can just move the thermostat to a higher spot in the house?

Same effect as setting the temp lower at its current location.
My recommendation is check into a ductless system for upstairs to boost the cooling. Cheaper than a second unit. Also agree that air circulation is critical.
 
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#10
#10
Same effect as setting the temp lower at its current location.
My recommendation is check into a ductless system for upstairs to boost the cooling. Cheaper than a second unit. Also agree that air circulation is critical.
He apparently already has vents upstairs, so I don't know if a quality mini-split would be any cheaper. I started to suggest that, as he could get one that only cools. I'm sure upstairs is warm enough in the Winter.
 
#12
#12
He apparently already has vents upstairs, so I don't know if a quality mini-split would be any cheaper. I started to suggest that, as he could get one that only cools. I'm sure upstairs is warm enough in the Winter.

I've never installed one. Friend of mine did in his old 2 story farmhouse. He loves it. He claims it costs less to run compared to a traditional unit.
 
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#13
#13
I've never installed one. Friend of mine did in his old 2 story farmhouse. He loves it. He claims it costs less to run compared to a traditional unit.
They are used all over the world, but my wife hates the look of those things hanging on the wall, so I haven't been allowed to partake. I got her to look at the ones that look like pictures, and the ones that are floor mounted too. No dice.


He could use one outside unit and , depending upon how many rooms, he could put an indoor unit in every room, running off the one unit outside.
 
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#14
#14
Some tips...from an article.
As well, when I lived in Texas, I had two systems and I increased the size of the upstairs unit to ensure I had more BTUs than the builder wanted to install.


Air Conditioner Capacity
Check the cooling capacity of your air conditioner. Air conditioners are sold in BTU classes, typically based on the square footage of your room. If you have a high ceiling, that reasoning misses the mark. A room with a high ceiling has much more volume than a room with a standard ceiling height. An air conditioning unit one or two BTUs higher than what is recommended for your room based on square footage alone will cool the room more efficiently. If the air conditioner capacity is too low, the unit will cycle off too frequently and the room will not remain cool.

Condenser Location
Place your air conditioner condenser on the shadiest side of your home. If the unit is exposed to direct sun during daylight hours, it has to work harder, and therefore less efficiently. By shading it, you will use up to 10 percent less energy than if it was in the direct heat. Shade trees also keep the unit running cooler, but keep branches pruned several feet away from the equipment. Shrubs planted nearby will reduce cooling efficiency because the surrounding air can't flow as easily.

Ceiling Fans
Install ceiling fans to assist your home's air conditioning system. If your room is large, install more than one. Ceiling fans improve air circulation so there aren't competing hot and cold spots. Place them in the hottest areas of the room, such as near west-facing windows. Add an extension rod so the fan is not so close to the ceiling. The fan will do the most good at 8-to-10-feet above the floor. Extension rods are available in up to 8-foot lengths. A ceiling fan with wide paddles moves more air around the room and therefore cools the room more effectively.

Ventilation
In the summer, attic temperatures can reach as much as 150 degrees Fahrenheit, heating up the whole house. To lower the temperature in a room with high ceilings, install a whole house fan. Whole house fans are mounted in the attic with a shutter placed in the ceiling. When the weather turns cool at night, open the windows and turn on the fan. The shutter opens, and the fan draws in the cool air through the open windows. All the hot air gathered at the top of the ceiling and in the attic expels through attic vents. You control which room or rooms are cooled by deciding which windows you open. The outside air must be cooler than the inside air for maximum effectiveness. A whole house fan uses minimal electricity compared to an air conditioner. Turn it on at night when it's cool outside and you'll sleep comfortably.
I would argue that if the a/c unit is too small, it will run constantly. If it is too big, it will not run as long, and may not control humidity as well as a smaller unit.


I have had a whole house fan in 2 different houses. They work well except when it is hot and humid after dark. Air conditioning is much more comfortable then because it lowers humidity. The whole house fan doesn't.
 
#15
#15
My two cents....

We have two two-story houses; one in SoCal and one in east TN. We have installed the ductless, mini-split systems in both. We installed a unit downstairs where we live (kitchen, dining, living, etc) and one in our master bedroom. We also have a central system in each home. We could never keep the upstairs and downstairs balanced until we installed the mini-splits. Now we're very happy with the results. We almost never use the central systems. We also installed a whole-house dehumidifier coupled with our central system in the TN home. The mini-splits have come way down in price. I saw a Pioneer 12,000 btu system for $800.00 delivered. Add some for install.

I suggest taking a serious look at the mini-splits.
 
#16
#16
Or you could try a level to level fan and circulate warm air from 2nd floor to 1st floor to balance temps out.

Here's an example on Amazon (not sure why link says Robot Check):

Robot Check
 
#17
#17
If you have an attic it might be better to install a second unit in the attic (air handler) and duct it through the ceiling. The install the compressor outside. There are ways an installer can get the refrigerant lines between the units.
 
#18
#18
If you have an attic it might be better to install a second unit in the attic (air handler) and duct it through the ceiling. The install the compressor outside. There are ways an installer can get the refrigerant lines between the units.
I figured that his vents probably already duct through the upstairs ceiling. He could install his air handler in the attic or an upstairs closet.
 
#19
#19
I figured that his vents probably already duct through the upstairs ceiling. He could install his air handler in the attic or an upstairs closet.

It could be. My second story is on floor trusses so my upstairs ducting is in the floor. If he's already got ducting in the attic, he can just put his air handler up there and just tap into his existing duct work. The challenge would be getting power and the refrigerant lines ran to their appropriate locations.
 
#20
#20
A 7 degree difference between the upstairs and down is definitely significant.
I'd question whether the unit is the right size for the home first. Then I'd question whether or not they installed a high and low air return for the system, if they've properly spread out the returns and didn't just install one giant air return in the downstairs hallway.
 
#21
#21
A 7 degree difference between the upstairs and down is definitely significant.
I'd question whether the unit is the right size for the home first. Then I'd question whether or not they installed a high and low air return for the system, if they've properly spread out the returns and didn't just install one giant air return in the downstairs hallway.
I asked him if it had a return upstairs on the first page. He hasn't answered.
 
#23
#23
I saw they're making smart vent covers now. They can sync to your thermostat and open/close based on desired room temp. That sort of solution paired with a smart thermostat may help.
 
#24
#24
My two cents....

We have two two-story houses; one in SoCal and one in east TN. We have installed the ductless, mini-split systems in both. We installed a unit downstairs where we live (kitchen, dining, living, etc) and one in our master bedroom. We also have a central system in each home. We could never keep the upstairs and downstairs balanced until we installed the mini-splits. Now we're very happy with the results. We almost never use the central systems. We also installed a whole-house dehumidifier coupled with our central system in the TN home. The mini-splits have come way down in price. I saw a Pioneer 12,000 btu system for $800.00 delivered. Add some for install.

I suggest taking a serious look at the mini-splits.

We’re building an addition to our home this year and I’m 90% sure the addition is getting a mini split. I really like the way those systems work. I’ve seen them used in the Carribean with impressive success.
 

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