Ended up getting really lucky with timing. Got here on Monday and discovered that Going to the Sun Road had been closed up until Monday due to the wildfires. I was off the grid prior to arrival and totally oblivious. I guess the wildfires have been especially bad this year, but are beginning to calm down. Foliage is starting to shift right now at higher elevations. Going to the Sun Road around Logan's Pass (6,800ish ft) has shifting colors. Crowds have died down a bit and many smaller stores in West Glacier have closed for the season. I would still describe the park as busy, though.. especially around popular areas. Would expect freezing temps to arrive in the next week or so as it got down to around 34 last night (I think). Have not heard any elk bugling. But did see a moose, some big horn sheep, and a mama black bear and cub (from the safety of my truck) all today. This place really is special. I only wish I had found a hiking buddy prior to arrival as going solo thru grizzly country at this time of year is a bit nerve wracking.