Rex, do you know Alamosa? TO said last time we dropped south from El Ranchero to GSD. I wanted to do that again; I remember the first time I saw the distant dunes from the the road and it was memorable. But TO has a wild hair about seeing Alamosa, but he also says doesn't know why...just heard about it.
Right now I am thinking after GSD up to Salida for night, then over to Ouray for a few days, leave Ouray and take the San Juan Pky to visit Ridgeway, how much time do you suggest? Then at Placerville head out for Arches for a few days before GBNP.
TO got Basecamp reinstalled on his computer today, so I hope we can run some routes tomorrow. Looking at a map the drive does not look bad. Need elevations and a virtual drive. First time we went to Arches, we went through an absolute dead zone, nothing!, we had done the virtual drive though (and I took lots of water, food, etc. in case we had to hike out
, I think the farthest we got in was maybe a 30-35 mile walk out and with water and boots I figured we could always get out.)
TO wants to see the color so September or October of next year. Makes it rough with football. We were at Crater Lake during the Florida game last year...finally got radio with just a few minutes left in the game and I couldn't even tell who was ahead. We've been in that area of Wyoming several times, don't remember Snowy River. Dubois is where I thought I might lose my nephew, bit hard by the western bug.
I don’t remember if I have been through Alamosa, but it is on US 160, which crosses the southernmost portion of the San Juan range in Colorado at Wolf Creek Pass (10,814 feet) en route to Durango. If memory serves me correctly, I did traverse Wolf Creek Pass in, I believe, 1978, so my memories of that specific experience are a little bit fuzzy. As a hardcore Tennessee football fan for 50 years now, I fully understand the conflicting and almost equally powerful gravitational pull of the pigskin season and time spent in the high country.
In recent years, however, I have become a connoisseur of fall foliage excursions to the Rockies. In my humble opinion, it is a truly holy time, one during which almighty God demonstrates his supreme mastery of the artistic process. Predicting when, where and to what degree peak color will occur is very tricky. The Maroon Bells, near Aspen, tend to peak around September 23-25. The entire San Juan Range, given its location in southwestern Colorado, tends to peak in early October. In 2007, we left Ouray on October 5 and the Dallas Divide area was still nowhere near peak color. When my brother asked my recommendation last year for the best time there for fall color, I told him that, based on my previous experience and information that I had amassed on the area, October 4-10 should give us a good chance of catching peak color somewhere. In many of the areas that we visited in the San Juans, most of the aspen had already dropped their leaves, due to early storms, but cottonwoods and scrub oak were still putting on a fantastic show.
I fully understand the allure of “bagging” national parks and have done plenty of that myself. I am now most attracted, however, to rugged alpine wilderness areas and, strangely enough, many of those regions never received National Park Service designation. As you have observed, many national parks cannot hold a proverbial candle to the awe-inspiring natural beauty that you will behold, for example, in the San Juans, particularly the Sneffels Range.
James Kay, one of the foremost landscape photographers in the country, said that, if he had to choose a single destination for fall foliage photography in the Rocky Mountain West, it would be the area within a 15-20 mile radius of Telluride. If you would like a single image as evidence that Kay is correct, I would submit this one for your consideration:
http://www.mountainphotography.com/photo/sneffels-range-autumn/?gallery=san-juan-mountains. The jagged, highest peak in the center is Mount Sneffels, in all of its resplendent glory.
With respect to more specific recommendations,
I would say, first and foremost, you will not regret carving out as much time as possible for this ultra-rugged portion of the San Juans. By Colorado standards, this is very sparsely populated country and simply does not receive the publicity or visitation that sites located along the Front Range do. It could be argued that the only mountain range in Colorado that rivals the San Juans, in terms of sheer, craggy peaks, is the Gore Range, located near Vail and Silverthorne. The latter range is so steep that virtually no trails actually cross the Divide; they simply terminate at high alpine lakes.
For the purposes of orienting yourself to the targets that I would consider highest on the lengthy must-see list of San Juan attractions, I will repeat the following paragraph from a previous post on the matter: “Take a look at this map:
https://www.telluride.com/blog/san-juan-skyway-must-do. If you conceptualize towns along the San Juan Skyway as being oriented to the hands of a clock, Ridgway assumes the position of 12:00, roughly; Ouray and Silverton correspond, respectively, with 1:00 and 2:00. Durango, of course, occupies the 6:00 position, while Rico, Telluride and Placerville are located at 9:00, 10:00 and 11:00, respectively. Viewed in this context, the most spectacular portions of the San Juan Skyway are, in my opinion, found between the 9:00 and 1:00 positions. The section from Durango Mountain Resort north to Molas Pass via US 550 is also very pretty. Much of that route passes through aspen forests, so it is absolutely gorgeous in fall, but, to the best of my recollection, still has relatively few of the precipitous drop-offs that would give you serious problems.”
For links that I posted regarding potential destinations in the Ridgway/Telluride/Sneffels Range area, along with the Lizard Head Wilderness, which is a bit farther south of Telluride, go back and look at post numbers 519, 521, 524, and 526 in this thread. Youtube videos, some of which are cited there, can be very helpful in visualizing just how spectacular the fall “gold” rush really is in the San Juan Range. Given the fact that you still have plenty of time to continue fine-tuning your itinerary,
I would suggest that you order, if you don’t already possess them, used copies of the Scenic Driving series for Colorado, Utah, and any other states relevant to your current interests, from Amazon.com (e.g.
https://www.amazon.com/Scenic-Drivi...66496&sr=1-1&keywords=scenic+driving+colorado). Trails Illustrated maps, particularly no. 141 (Telluride, Ouray, Silverton, Lake City), are richly detailed cartographic masterpieces that will help immensely in route-planning. See
http://www.natgeomaps.com/telluride-silverton-ouray-lake-city.
TO will want to be aware that the Dallas Divide is the signature photographic vista in this area. It is a great location to shoot sunrise or sunset images, although you will probably be accompanied, at those times, by a fair number of fellow photographers. Dallas Divide is also a great place for star gazing. We did that once in 2007 and were amazed to then see the only bull elk we witnessed on the entire trip; he was contentedly grazing just a few short feet from the shoulder of the road.
Finally, gather all of the info you can on Ouray County Roads 5, 7 and 9, all of which travel south from the Dallas Divide area on Colorado State Route 62, to various portions of the Sneffels Range. These roads, as well as the Last Dollar Road, all provide extraordinary opportunities for fall foliage photography and truly should be savored, weather permitting, of course.