Hvac, electric, plumbing, etc.

#1
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Grudenator

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#1
I see a lot of different ways that people help each other out or give ideas to people on here. Fortunately/Unfortunately I’m a multi-skilled maintenance technician and wanted to start a thread to help anyone out that had any questions or problems with anything skill related! I’m sure there are others on here that know way more than me so feel free to pitch in help! The more answers and ideas the better! I’m sharper on HVAC And electric, but do know plumbing decently as well. Just let me know if y’all need any help!
 
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#2
#2
I got one.

My washing machine is older Maytag. Not ancient but older. The other night I put some towels in before bed, when I got up the next morning I noticed the power light was still on and the spin cycle hadn't completely finished. Like 95% finished. I'm not sure if this was a fluke or if it's broken. I dont want to fill it up with water to test it if it wont drain out. I inspected the belts and they seem okay. I have read about the moter coupler but I'm not sure if older machines have those?
 
#3
#3
K-town Vol Fan said:
I got one.

My washing machine is older Maytag. Not ancient but older. The other night I put some towels in before bed, when I got up the next morning I noticed the power light was still on and the spin cycle hadn't completely finished. Like 95% finished. I'm not sure if this was a fluke or if it's broken. I dont want to fill it up with water to test it if it wont drain out. I inspected the belts and they seem okay. I have read about the moter coupler but I'm not sure if older machines have those?
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Was water still in it? If it’s a front loader it might be the discharge pump. I had one like that and it would never finish the cycle due to the water not completely emptying out and not going to the next cycle. Faulty discharge pump.
 
#4
#4
distrovol said:
Was water still in it? If it’s a front loader it might be the discharge pump. I had one like that and it would never finish the cycle due to the water not completely emptying out and not going to the next cycle. Faulty discharge pump.
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No it did not have water in it
 
#6
#6
distrovol said:
Is it a front loader?
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Top. I went ahead started a small cycle to see what it would do. It filled with water then nothing. No agitation or spin. So, after a little research I believe a faulty lid switch is the culprit. I pulled the old one and it looks pretty rough and also rattles when you shake it. I went ahead and ordered the whole assembly, hopefully that fixed it.
 
#7
#7
K-town Vol Fan said:
Top. I went ahead started a small cycle to see what it would do. It filled with water then nothing. No agitation or spin. So, after a little research I believe a faulty lid switch is the culprit. I pulled the old one and it looks pretty rough and also rattles when you shake it. I went ahead and ordered the whole assembly, hopefully that fixed it.
Click to expand...
Wire nut the 2 wires from the lid switch together & run the machine. That'll tell you if the lid switch is bad. If it works, just don't open the lid & stick your arm in the moving agitator then try to sue me:eek:
 
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#8
#8
Orange Sunset said:
Wire nut the 2 wires from the lid switch together & run the machine. That'll tell you if the lid switch is bad. If it works, just don't open the lid & stick your arm in the moving agitator then try to sue me:eek:
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This. Jump the lid switch and see if it solves your problem.
 
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#9
#9
I had a top loader that would get to the first fill and never drain. Turned out to be the drain pump. It wasn't clogged but between some slime in it and gear teeth that had worn down (plastic) it just wasn't catching. Bought one online for about 50 and replaced it - works great now.
 
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#13
#13
volinbham said:
getting the water out of one that won't drain is definitely a PITA
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I can imagine. There was a bathtub once that an older lady had filled to the rim and it wouldn’t drain. Luckily the toilet was next to the tub and I siphoned most of the water into the toilet so that i could attempt to plunge it out. It would amaze you the amount of hair that’s in shower drains 😣
 
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#14
#14
I’ll also add that front loading washing machines are a BAD idea. They are very reputable to start leaking after a year. Samsung’s are the worst from my experience and the part prices are ridiculous.
 
#15
#15
Grudenator said:
I’ll also add that front loading washing machines are a BAD idea. They are very reputable to start leaking after a year. Samsung’s are the worst from my experience and the part prices are ridiculous.
Click to expand...

They're awfully stylish though for those with more money (to flush) than common sense.
 
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#16
#16
Need to have 240/50 run for a hot tub. 60 foot. How much am I looking at in Knoxville? Any recommendations for an electrician that won't crack my bank account.
 
#18
#18
Zues1 said:
Need to have 240/50 run for a hot tub. 60 foot. How much am I looking at in Knoxville? Any recommendations for an electrician that won't crack my bank account.
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And how much open space do you have in your panel right now
 
#20
#20
distrovol said:
How accessible is your panel from where the hot tub is located?
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50' foot away, full unfinished downstairs running the length of the house. I imagine you would run the wiring inside the downstairs and bore through the brick wall to add the shut off
panel.
 
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#21
#21
Zues1 said:
50' foot away, full unfinished downstairs running the length of the house. I imagine you would run the wiring inside the downstairs and bore through the brick wall to add the shut off
panel.
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Yeah that’s what I would do. When boring the hole, start in the middle of 2 bricks where the mortar is. It’ll make it a lot easier
 
#23
#23
This was my project yesterday at work. Is this what copper pipe is supposed to look like?😂😭😂 can anyone guess what kind of pipe insulation that is? First correct answer gets a free vacation to Bora Bora (not) 😂 Also can anyone guess what causes it to oxidize and corrode that badly? Hint for both of those questions: The building was built in 1967.
5EAFF9F3-0002-4A58-887E-166E6F5D3DC1.jpeg
 
#25
#25
Zues1 said:
50' foot away, full unfinished downstairs running the length of the house. I imagine you would run the wiring inside the downstairs and bore through the brick wall to add the shut off
panel.
Click to expand...

Looking around $300 in material, a little more if you have to make the whip between the spa sub panel and tub. I’d estimate the whole job $450-$700 depending on the installer. By that I mean a competent guy doing side work or an electrical contractor paying full rates.
 
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