Yeah, I thought about posting a suggestion to use raised beds (presumably framed in, not just big piles of soil), but then you have to get the soil for them, and it doesn't sound like
@LouderVol has a ton available to him.
But one of the handy things about starting with raised beds is that after a season or three, if you like, you can remove the framing and spread the soil you've been using over the ground. So if you were interested in doing that, you could do some serious work forking or tilling up your native soil, even if down to just a couple of inches into the clay, mixing in soil amendments and working them in to improve the texture of the soil, build some 4x4 or whatever frames with paths in between, go find some quality topsoil AND mushroom compost and fill up the frames, and plant. The roots will help the native soil underneath loosen up and improve, get some mycorrhizal activity going down deep, let earthworms start doing their magic, and so forth.
Many people don't realize this, but clay soil is generally VERY fertile! It's just that it's so dense that the air pockets and water pockets that roots need don't exist. Amending clay with organic matter (especially the mushroom comport or similar) improves its tilth. It takes a few years, but this is kind of how nature creates soil, and it works. Per my latest soil test, I will not have to add any phosphorus or potassium to my garden beds for the rest of my days. Just the nitrogen from compost, etc., because nitrogen leaches out so quickly.
If you have a big space, you could start with four 4'x4' or 4'x6' beds this year, plant (for instance) tomatoes, peppers, beans, and cukes or other squash family vegs to start. Don't forget to add pollinator-attracting flowers and herbs! It's super-trendy now, so you should be able to find plenty - marigolds, zinnias, nasturtiums, calendulas, etc. Then next year (if you don't start drinking heavily this July
and swearing off the whole mess by August
), add two or four new raised beds and try some new plants, and so on. If you want, start taking down the initial frames after their third year and re-use them elsewhere. This way you can slowly and naturally improve the underlying soil, learn what you like to grow and not,
figure out what to do when 8 tomato plants all bear fruit within 3 weeks (them's a lot of mater sammiches), and expand your garden in general.
It's definitely possible to build a large instant garden, but it takes a lot of time, some serious back muscles and/or machinery, stubborn determination and discipline, and $$$$$. I like the idea of creeping up on it a bit and learning as you go, and not winding up looking out the window at a monstrous weed patch and loathing the whole notion.
Google [your county name} extension master gardeners to see if you have an active group locally. We often have videos, demonstration gardens, information booths, helplines, etc. I don't remember where you live, and our climate is probably pretty different from yours (although we're up to USDA zones 7A-7B
), but we have a pretty robust YouTube channel that might have some helpful info:
https://www.youtube.com/@buncombecountymastergarden2508/videos.
Also, I really like this guy:
Harvest to Table He's very knowledgeable, although there are some weird edits every now and then, and he has guidance for just about everything. He's in California - don't hold it against him - but he has planting guides for all over the country.
PS: re amending heavy clay soil: it might sound very logical (it did to me!!!) that mixing sand into clay soil would be a SUPER way to break it up and aerate it! lol, It isn't. It's actually sort of a recipe to make bricks.
I tried that when I lived in Knoxville, and boy, did I learn. You need to add a (formerly) living material - compost, pine fines, straw (you too can grow wheat in your backyard!), dead leaves, dried grass clippings, even shredded bark. Be aware that dry "browns" like dead leaves and bark need nitrogen to help them decompose, so either add a generous amount of blood meal (great source of nitrogen) to them when you mix them in, or realize that they will be competing to some degree with the plants above them for the N in the soli. It's not a disaster, but I did see noticeably slower growth from some tomato plants in soil that I had amended with hardwood mulch. Three years later, though, that soil is amazing.