The Gardening Thread

#83
#83
norrislakevol said:
Some very nice Danvers carrots from the garden as well as some small Kenebec potatoes that I dug early for some pot roast....yum!!! and a couple of zucchini. I'll probably can a lot of these carrots for use in stews this winter.View attachment 377381
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Wow! When did you plant the carrots? Are you still in the Norris Lake area, or have you moved to the Gulf coast or something?
 
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#84
#84
VolNExile said:
Wow! When did you plant the carrots? Are you still in the Norris Lake area, or have you moved to the Gulf coast or something?
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I planted them in March. The key to nice carrots is to thin them to about 1 carrot every 2 inches or so. Same with radishes as well. I will say however, that this particular garden has some of the best root crop soil I have ever seen in my life. I raised a 4.96 pound turnip one year!

I still live up by Norris lake, on Ridge Circle/Loyston Point Road area if you are familiar with the area. I live on the family farm, about 120 acres worth. I have raised multiple vegetable gardens on various places on the property. Each place produces certain crops better or worse than the other. You have to learn your soil!
 
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#85
#85
Last year, I planted various tomato varieties in the same bed - Cherokee purples, better boy, cherry, Bonnie. I saved seed from the fruits and started new plants during winter. The plants from the Cherokee purple seeds were the hardiest. I’ve six of these. The fruits which they are producing are curious. The earliest to ripen are like red capri tomatoes sold in stores. Cross pollination last year?
 
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#86
#86
Tin Man said:
Last year, I planted various tomato varieties in the same bed - Cherokee purples, better boy, cherry, Bonnie. I saved seed from the fruits and started new plants during winter. The plants from the Cherokee purple seeds were the hardiest. I’ve six of these. The fruits which they are producing are curious. The earliest to ripen are like red capri tomatoes sold in stores. Cross pollination last year?
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Different tomato varieties should be separated by at least 10 feet to avoid any chance of cross pollination. Looking at your list, The better boys and Bonnie for sure are hybrids when you buy them. Saving seeds from hybrids is a crap shoot at best. They are more likely to turn out like one of their parent plants, and who knows what they were.

If I recall correctly, the Cherokee purples are an open pollinated (heirloom) tomato. So those may be able to be saved if they weren't close enough to cross pollinate with another variety.
 
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#87
#87
norrislakevol said:
Different tomato varieties should be separated by at least 10 feet to avoid any chance of cross pollination. Looking at your list, The better boys and Bonnie for sure are hybrids when you buy them. Saving seeds from hybrids is a crap shoot at best. They are more likely to turn out like one of their parent plants, and who knows what they were.

If I recall correctly, the Cherokee purples are an open pollinated (heirloom) tomato. So those may be able to be saved if they weren't close enough to cross pollinate with another variety.
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Thanks. I expected some cross pollination, but did not know what would happen. The most prodigious plant producing capri sized tomatoes is likely a hybrid of Cherokee purple and cherry tomato. I’ll report on the others as their fruits ripen.
 
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#88
#88
norrislakevol said:
Different tomato varieties should be separated by at least 10 feet to avoid any chance of cross pollination. Looking at your list, The better boys and Bonnie for sure are hybrids when you buy them. Saving seeds from hybrids is a crap shoot at best. They are more likely to turn out like one of their parent plants, and who knows what they were.

If I recall correctly, the Cherokee purples are an open pollinated (heirloom) tomato. So those may be able to be saved if they weren't close enough to cross pollinate with another variety.
Click to expand...

That's correct on the Cherokee Purple being an Heirloom. You never want to save seeds from a hybrid of any kind.
 
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#92
#92
walkenvol said:
I’ve about given up on growing squash. As soon as I get them producing the vine borers kill my plants
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Have you tried wrapping the transplants in foil or even panty hose (we all know you have a drawer of old pantyhose) around the stems when you first set them out? Our local Master Gardeners tried this in their experimental garden, and it worked really well. Wrap the stem and plant so that about an inch of the wrapped part is below the soil level and three inches above. When the larvae hatch, they can’t get at the base of the stems to start their chomping. Also plastic half gallon milk cartons cut in half, but they can be a bit awkward to get around the transplant if it has some size on it.

I gave up on squash because of powdery mildew, plus they’re such space hogs. I can always get them at a tailgate market.
 
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#93
#93
I’ve tried the foil wrap without success but I plant squash seed in the garden so maybe I was too late with the wrapping. The plants do get bushy but the fresh fruit is so good. I’ve read an article about a hormone or some type of organic spray that’s supposed to help
 
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#94
#94
walkenvol said:
I’ve tried the foil wrap without success but I plant squash seed in the garden so maybe I was too late with the wrapping. The plants do get bushy but the fresh fruit is so good. I’ve read an article about a hormone or some type of organic spray that’s supposed to help
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Don't know if it helps or not, but I spray seven at the base as well as the foliage. I usually get most of my squash with little plant loss. It is acting weird this year though, even without signs of pests. Quite bushy and healthy looking but production seems low. Then again I just got my first cuts. I also tried some different strains of squash this year to try and get better long term yield. So it could be lack of experience with the plants.

Pic 'n' Pic Hybrid yellow
Fordhook Zuchini
 
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