AR-15 Builders

#378
#378
Grand, I spoke to the friend that I assembled his AR. His was a real budget build. It has the same PSA BCG. His will fire the first shot, eject the spent round, load the next round but will not fire it. He hits the forward assist but it doesn't seem to do anything. He has to manually cycle ejecting the unfired round and chambering the next round. Then it will fire and the same thing happens. He says it is ejecting the shell about 8 feet away and slightly backwards. It does hang open on an empty mag. Any ideas?

It also has the heavy duty buffer and spring.
 
#379
#379
InVOLuntary said:
Grand, I spoke to the friend that I assembled his AR. His was a real budget build. It has the same PSA BCG. His will fire the first shot, eject the spent round, load the next round but will not fire it. He hits the forward assist but it doesn't seem to do anything. He has to manually cycle ejecting the unfired round and chambering the next round. Then it will fire and the same thing happens. He says it is ejecting the shell about 8 feet away and slightly backwards. It does hang open on an empty mag. Any ideas?

It also has the heavy duty buffer and spring.
Click to expand...

Define "heavy duty" buffer and spring. You shouldn't be running more than an H buffer, maybe an H2 depending on how well the rifle is broken in. For a new rifle, a regular carbine spring and H buffer should be plenty. I run an H2, but mine are also well broken in.

I can only do so much without seeing it and test firing it myself. But my suggestion is to swap the BCG to start with. See if a known BCG works. The PSA kit does come with a pretty heavy phosphate coating that takes a little time (and firing) to wear off. I haven't heard of it being a serious problem before, but I could see it happening if it was a bit too much. Easy fix to wearing it off is to liberally (as in dunk the sucker) in motor oil and fire about 3-5 mags as fast as possible. I use 5W-40 synthetic myself. What the rifle doesn't want, it will spit back out, so beware of some spray.

Check the fitting on the BCG prior to though. The cam pin can cause some problems if the fit is too tight. Again, nothing except replacement or breaking it in. Next would be the bolt itself. Make sure it can be turned 360 degrees inside the carrier without major effort (remove the cam pin first)

Next, check the ammo. What kind is he using? For a break in, I'd suggest something a little hotter like M193 spec stuff. If he's shooting weaker Tula or a Russian animal brand, that can cause problems too.

Also, check the FCG to make sure everything was installed properly. It's odd that it will strip the next round, but doesn't fire. Is the hammer falling? That sounds like the potential for a hard primer, but not that many rounds in a row. Does the unfired round have an indention on the primer? Do you have a headspace gauge?

I'm stabbing in the dark here without actually seeing it.
 
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#380
#380
With al being around 80 cents per pound and manufacturing at 60$ an hr, machining a forged lower into a complete lower in 20 minutes, with the faster production lines it mark cost 25$ to produce a lower and that leaves some profit, I imagine they make hundreds per day for atleast 2 weeks a month to build inventory, anyone who paid 100$ or more during the great obama gun confiscation scare feels pretty bad. Luckily the 2 ars I own (one being adams arms piston driven upper) I paid less than 1k for both to people who just needed the money. And now come next Friday will have a 300 blackout pistol built for less than 400$!

Edit: average ar lower receiver weighs in around 8.5 ounces
 
#381
#381
I've read through this thead pretty regularly and can't remember seeing this question answered, but maybe it has.

What is the opinion on Stag Arms products ?

Yay or Nay ?
 
#382
#382
goldenvol said:
I've read through this thead pretty regularly and can't remember seeing this question answered, but maybe it has.

What is the opinion on Stag Arms products ?

Yay or Nay ?
Click to expand...

Stag is generally fine. A little overpriced for what you get IMO as they are selling on a name rather than a product.

They got into trouble some time back with the ATF, but got brought under new management.
 
#383
#383
Grand Vol said:
Stag is generally fine. A little overpriced for what you get IMO as they are selling on a name rather than a product.

They got into trouble some time back with the ATF, but got brought under new management.
Click to expand...

I want to think I heard they got caught not keeping up with the serial numbers properly or something along those lines.

Thanks for the info
 
#384
#384
goldenvol said:
I want to think I heard they got caught not keeping up with the serial numbers properly or something along those lines.

Thanks for the info
Click to expand...

Unregistered machine guns from what I'm to understand.

Kind of a big deal.
 
#386
#386
Thinking about a Sig M400 in .223/.556 $1049 @ Cabelas; nitride barrel; pop up sights; mag pull furniture; etc. Any opinions? Other comparable options? Thanks in advance!

http://www.cabelas.com/product/SIG-Sauer-M-Enhanced-Series-Semiautomatic-Tactical-Rifles/1330449.uts
 
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#387
#387
CRASH63 said:
Thinking about a Sig M400 in .223/.556 $1049 @ Cabelas; nitride barrel; pop up sights; mag pull furniture; etc. Any opinions? Other comparable options? Thanks in advance!

http://www.cabelas.com/product/SIG-Sauer-M-Enhanced-Series-Semiautomatic-Tactical-Rifles/1330449.uts
Click to expand...

Good guns I owned one for a year and sold it to buy an adams arms piston rifle. Seems high for what it is, you could build one, I just built a ar pistol in .300 blackout under 500$, 80% lower I finished myself, aero precision upper and hand guard, 60$ sig brace(from gunmag warehouse) on Midwest industries buffer tube, cmmg lower parts kit, barrel from ballistic advantage 10.5" 1:7, yhm bcg & charging handle
 
#388
#388
CRASH63 said:
Thinking about a Sig M400 in .223/.556 $1049 @ Cabelas; nitride barrel; pop up sights; mag pull furniture; etc. Any opinions? Other comparable options? Thanks in advance!

http://www.cabelas.com/product/SIG-Sauer-M-Enhanced-Series-Semiautomatic-Tactical-Rifles/1330449.uts
Click to expand...

I'm no expert, but I do have a Sig 516 and love it. Apparently, the piston (516) has the advantage on cleaning vs the DI of the M400, but they both get great reviews. I also like the extended rails on mine.
 
#389
#389
CRASH63 said:
Thinking about a Sig M400 in .223/.556 $1049 @ Cabelas; nitride barrel; pop up sights; mag pull furniture; etc. Any opinions? Other comparable options? Thanks in advance!

http://www.cabelas.com/product/SIG-Sauer-M-Enhanced-Series-Semiautomatic-Tactical-Rifles/1330449.uts
Click to expand...

A little less:

https://www.budsgunshop.com/catalog...920+Law+Enforcement+30+1+223REM5.56NATO+16.1"

A little more:

https://www.budsgunshop.com/catalog..._id/411551376/BCM+M4+CARB+MOD+0+5.56+16"+30RD

If that Bravo Company is a new build as the site claims, it will have these features instead (I'd check with Buds first)

http://www.bravocompanymfg.com/specification/bcm_m4_mod0.php
 
#390
#390
Hayezb said:
Decided I would build my first AR-15 instead of buying one. I want to know everything about my rifle so I can fix any issues that might occur.

So far this is what I've got:

AeroPrecision stripped upper / lower
KNS Lower Parts Kit
Geissele 2 Stage (G2S) Trigger
Magpul Furniture

I'm still trying to decide on a BCG and barrel. If I can find one, I'm wanting a Daniel Defense 16' 1/7 twist barrel and I'm thinking about FailZero EXO BCG.


Anybody have any suggestions or pictures of their own builds?


------ Build Update ------

Alright, I honestly had forgotten I created this thread but wanted to post my updated build and specs list:

IMG_0796_zpsqnblep9n.jpg


- Aero Precision Upper and Lowers
- FailZero BCG
- BCM Chargin Handle
- MagPul MOE K2+ Grip
- MagPul ACS-L Stock
- MagPul Iron Sights
- RET 16" 223 Wylde 1x8 Melonin Barrel
- UTG Pro 15" Free Float Handguard
- Strike Industries KingComp
- Geissele 2 Stage Trigger
- Various small parts

I picked up a Vortex Optics Crossfire II 4-12x44 and the light/laser combo actually came with my Sig P250.

Overall I love this build. I've yet to use the optics yet but I'm heading to the range today after work. It was a great time building it and a lot easier than I was expecting. I recommend buying the MagPul wrench and block to help with the torquing.
Click to expand...

Like your work bench. You build it yourself? Could you post pic of entire bench?
Thanks.
 
#391
#391
Here ya go InVol, something for that AR of yours.

[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hoGRlS53U_k[/youtube]
 
#393
#393
Grand Vol said:
Here ya go InVol, something for that AR of yours.

[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hoGRlS53U_k[/youtube]
Click to expand...

They did a pretty good job keeping a straight face about it. The "everybody jumps up from the idea table" tipped the hand a bit.
 
#397
#397
Gave my Sig 516 its first deep clean last night, and I have two questions for you experts that I could not conclusively answer searching online:

- the gas piston had a decent carbon buildup near the outer seal/o ring, which I removed with solvent and gentle scraping. Should I oil the end of the piston that slides into the sheath at the muzzle end? Any other areas? RemOil ok, or should I purchase something else?

- not to start a debate, but is there a lube/grease for the metal-on-metal areas of the bolt/upper you guys prefer?
 
#398
#398
kiddiedoc said:
Gave my Sig 516 its first deep clean last night, and I have two questions for you experts that I could not conclusively answer searching online:

- the gas piston had a decent carbon buildup near the outer seal/o ring, which I removed with solvent and gentle scraping. Should I oil the end of the piston that slides into the sheath at the muzzle end? Any other areas? RemOil ok, or should I purchase something else?

- not to start a debate, but is there a lube/grease for the metal-on-metal areas of the bolt/upper you guys prefer?
Click to expand...

It's perfectly fine to oil the piston and oprod area. Pretty much any time you have moving metal to metal contact is a good place to oil. Don't believe the internet hype that a piston AR doesn't need lubrication, it it moves, oil it.

As for preferred lubricants, to each their own. Rem oil is fine if that's what you have. I'm a firm believer in 5W40 synthetic motor oil myself. It's reasonably cheap for a quart and works just as well as any "premium" gun oil on the market. And a quart will last you a very long time.
 
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