AR-15 Builders

#351
#351
distrovol said:
Once sighted in, less than a box a month; if that much.

The barrel isn't chromed and is 1 in 8 twist. I presume that would figure in how fast you wear the barrel out?

Stuff like that is where the "good base to start off" comes in. My thinking is I can upgrade the things like that if need be.
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1-8 is perfectly fine. In fact I know more than a few consider it ideal unless you're planning on shooting the really heavy for caliber bullets. (70+ grains) No real need for chrome lining either unless you were planning on shooting a lot in a short period of time.
 
#352
#352
hndog609 said:
1-8 is perfectly fine. In fact I know more than a few consider it ideal unless you're planning on shooting the really heavy for caliber bullets. (70+ grains) No real need for chrome lining either unless you were planning on shooting a lot in a short period of time.
Click to expand...

Actually, 1/8 will handle the 70+ stuff fine. The 1/9 is where you have problems.

But I'm going to disagree on the chrome lining. The anti corrosion factor alone is desirable. Plus the natural lubricity of chrome helps extend barrel life regardless of firing schedule. And if the chamber isn't chrome lined? Absolute no go with me.

There are some corners that can be cut on a weekend shooter. Others not so much.
 
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#353
#353
GV,
You ever try one of the lower receivers polymer molds? Been thinking about building my first ar this summer
 
#354
#354
Vol8188 said:
GV,
You ever try one of the lower receivers polymer molds? Been thinking about building my first ar this summer
Click to expand...

In one of the two threads, I don't recommend them.

With the price of aluminum receivers being insanely low, there's no reason to go polymer.
 
#355
#355
CABVOL said:
Looking at buying first AR. Looking at a M&P 15 FDE. Earlier on in this thread, I noticed GV recommended a Colt over a S&W. I can get this for just under $700. Is it worth it, and would anyone care to give me your opinion on the S&W AR's? TIA
Click to expand...

I've owned the S&W sport II for 2 years. put some magpul furniture on it and a Sig Romeo 5 red dot. Still under 1,000 in total cost and shoots just as good as my buddies with Rockrivers, Colt 6920.

The sport 2 is the upgrade from the standard sport, comes with the dustcover (which you dont really need unless you are in fallujah) and forward assist (which i've never used). Its a basic entry level AR that serves as a great plinking rifle and i would have no fear having to use it for harvesting food or protecting my family with it.
 
#356
#356
Grand Vol said:
Actually, 1/8 will handle the 70+ stuff fine. The 1/9 is where you have problems.

But I'm going to disagree on the chrome lining. The anti corrosion factor alone is desirable. Plus the natural lubricity of chrome helps extend barrel life regardless of firing schedule. And if the chamber isn't chrome lined? Absolute no go with me.

There are some corners that can be cut on a weekend shooter. Others not so much.
Click to expand...

I've heard many say that 1/8 can be iffy with the 77's and if you're really planning on shooting those there's no reason not to go 1-7. OTHO as I pointed out I've heard more than a few say 1-8 is probably the best all around. (and let's face it, weekend blasters aren't likely to be shooting the heavy match loads anyway)

If we're talking barrel life for a general shooter (he stated something like a box a month, which if even on the low side is going to be a loooong time before erosion becomes an issue) chrome isn't going to offer any great advantage.

If it comes down to a yea or nay I'd say chrome is nice but for the described use nothing to worry about. Certainly nothing one should lose sleep over...shoot/clean/repeat. If upgrading in the future one can certainly go that route.
 
#359
#359
sofflavol said:
I've owned the S&W sport II for 2 years. put some magpul furniture on it and a Sig Romeo 5 red dot. Still under 1,000 in total cost and shoots just as good as my buddies with Rockrivers, Colt 6920.

The sport 2 is the upgrade from the standard sport, comes with the dustcover (which you dont really need unless you are in fallujah) and forward assist (which i've never used). Its a basic entry level AR that serves as a great plinking rifle and i would have no fear having to use it for harvesting food or protecting my family with it.
Click to expand...

Thank you!
 
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#363
#363
Alright, Grand and others, I fired off my 6.8 tonight. I have to say I'm a tad disappointed. Not sure what's going on. As mentioned earlier, the action has been very sticky. I thought it may have been the bcg as I used a PSA for the first time. It has that rough texture where the others I've used have been very slick like gun bluing. The PSA has like a parkerized finish on it. Obviously, I changed out the bolt to one I purchased with the barrel at AR PRECISION. I thought it might be the heavy duty buffer and spring that I purchased. My plan was to switch out the buffer and spring with the little 300BO SBR I built as it has been over gassing.

So the first thing I did was make the swap of the spring and buffer. I went ahead and fired off a few rounds through the 300BO and that seems to have helped. The rounds are ejecting and hitting the ground about 6-8' away at about 15 degree angle backwards. I think that is good, no?

Put the lighter, mil spec buffer and spring in the 6.8. Same deal. The gun refuses to cycle. The action is about as stiff as I've seen one. Suspecting the BCG is the problem, I swapped with the 300BO (swapping the bolt too). The action was smooth as silk. But the gun will still not cycle. It will seldom, 1 out of 20, eject the spent round. Most time it will just jamb the spent shell with the bolt 1/2 open. That tells me it's just not cycling far enough.

So that leads me to think it's in the gas system. I placed a spent round in the chamber and blew down the barrel. It seemed ok. So I went ahead and pulled the rail and removed the block. There is really no alignment possible as the barrel has an idention for the set screw. My gut's telling me it's the gas block or maybe I damaged the tube putting the roll pin in. I bought a cheap block so that might be my problem too. Any ideas?

Also, I put the PSA BCG in the little 300BO and it cycled perfectly. It is my favorite gun and it's one of my least expensive builds.
 
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#364
#364
InVOLuntary said:
Alright, Grand and others, I fired off my 6.8 tonight. I have to say I'm a tad disappointed. Not sure what's going on. As mentioned earlier, the action has been very sticky. I thought it may have been the bcg as I used a PSA for the first time. It has that rough texture where the others I've used have been very slick like gun bluing. The PSA has like a parkerized finish on it. Obviously, I changed out the bolt to one I purchased with the barrel at AR PRECISION. I thought it might be the heavy duty buffer and spring that I purchased. My plan was to switch out the buffer and spring with the little 300BO SBR I built as it has been over gassing.

So the first thing I did was make the swap of the spring and buffer. I went ahead and fired off a few rounds through the 300BO and that seems to have helped. The rounds are ejecting and hitting the ground about 6-8' away at about 15 degree angle backwards. I think that is good, no?

Put the lighter, mil spec buffer and spring in the 6.8. Same deal. The gun refuses to cycle. The action is about as stiff as I've seen one. Suspecting the BCG is the problem, I swapped with the 300BO (swapping the bolt too). The action was smooth as silk. But the gun will still not cycle. It will seldom, 1 out of 20, eject the spent round. Most time it will just jamb the spent shell with the bolt 1/2 open. That tells me it's just not cycling far enough.

So that leads me to think it's in the gas system. I placed a spent round in the chamber and blew down the barrel. It seemed ok. So I went ahead and pulled the rail and removed the block. There is really no alignment possible as the barrel has an idention for the set screw. My gut's telling me it's the gas block or maybe I damaged the tube putting the roll pin in. I bought a cheap block so that might be my problem too. Any ideas?

Also, I put the PSA BCG in the little 300BO and it cycled perfectly. It is my favorite gun and it's one of my least expensive builds.
Click to expand...

Okay, your post is slightly confusing. Are you saying the BCG did okay in everything else?

Take the .300 out of the picture as it's throwing me off to diagnose.
 
#365
#365
Grand Vol said:
Okay, your post is slightly confusing. Are you saying the BCG did okay in everything else?

Take the .300 out of the picture as it's throwing me off to diagnose.
Click to expand...

Yes, the PSA BCG worked ok in the 300BO. The other BCG, the slick one did manually operate much smoother in the 6.8. It still doesn't cycle though. That's why I'm thinking it's the gas.

Just to clarify what 6.8 has in it now:

Used, slicker finish, BCG with the proper bolt.
Lighter, mil spec buffer and spring.

It has that cheaper gas block and the barrel was drilled by the manufacturer for the set screw so there isn't really way to adjust gas block. Mid length by the way. I thought about removing the gas block and trying to drill the hole a little larger in the block.

I'll say this too, I don't like that finish on the PSA BCG, it very rough, like some kind of parkerized finish.
 
#366
#366
InVOLuntary said:
Yes, the PSA BCG worked ok in the 300BO. The other BCG, the slick one did manually operate much smoother in the 6.8. It still doesn't cycle though. That's why I'm thinking it's the gas.

Just to clarify what 6.8 has in it now:

Used, slicker finish, BCG with the proper bolt.
Lighter, mil spec buffer and spring.

It has that cheaper gas block and the barrel was drilled by the manufacturer for the set screw so there isn't really way to adjust gas block. Mid length by the way. I thought about removing the gas block and trying to drill the hole a little larger in the block.
Click to expand...

Okay, so the round isn't chambering without help? Can it chamber at all? Is the gas tube possibly preventing full chambering? If two different BCGs aren't getting a good seat, that would be the first place I looked. Second would be the gas tube to ensure proper installation at the gas block. Next would be the upper receiver itself to make sure it's in spec.

And I wouldn't go fooling around drilling to increase the port size in the gas block. Send it back or use a new one.
 
#367
#367
Grand Vol said:
Okay, so the round isn't chambering without help? Can it chamber at all? Is the gas tube possibly preventing full chambering? If two different BCGs aren't getting a good seat, that would be the first place I looked. Second would be the gas tube to ensure proper installation at the gas block. Next would be the upper receiver itself to make sure it's in spec.

And I wouldn't go fooling around drilling to increase the port size in the gas block. Send it back or use a new one.
Click to expand...

I can manually chamber a round. I don't have to use the forward assist, a simple push of the bolt release fully chambers the round. Upon firing that round the next round will eject once out of about twenty rounds. The other times it jambs with the spent round still in the action. It has never chambered a second round. It does cycle far enough to cock the hammer. It was a cheap gas block. Not worth returning. I can't really adjust it as the set screw falls into the detent on the barrel.
 
#368
#368
InVOLuntary said:
I can manually chamber a round. I don't have to use the forward assist, a simple push of the bolt release fully chambers the round. Upon firing that round the next round will eject once out of about twenty rounds. The other times it jambs with the spent round still in the action. It has never chambered a second round. It does cycle far enough to cock the hammer. It was a cheap gas block. Not worth returning. I can't really adjust it as the set screw falls into the detent on the barrel.
Click to expand...

Under gassed.
 
#370
#370
hndog609 said:
I've heard many say that 1/8 can be iffy with the 77's and if you're really planning on shooting those there's no reason not to go 1-7. OTHO as I pointed out I've heard more than a few say 1-8 is probably the best all around. (and let's face it, weekend blasters aren't likely to be shooting the heavy match loads anyway)

If we're talking barrel life for a general shooter (he stated something like a box a month, which if even on the low side is going to be a loooong time before erosion becomes an issue) chrome isn't going to offer any great advantage.

If it comes down to a yea or nay I'd say chrome is nice but for the described use nothing to worry about. Certainly nothing one should lose sleep over...shoot/clean/repeat. If upgrading in the future one can certainly go that route.
Click to expand...

Great insight; thank you fellas :hi:

The Ruger's chamber is chromed, not the barrel. Seems like a smart way to cut costs, get into the more affordable range, and not sacrifice quality and reliability. If I wear out the barrel, I can always upgrade to a new one.
 
#371
#371
InVOLuntary said:
So your're thinking new gas block/tube?

Also, on the 300BO, brass is ejecting at about a 15 degree angle back and hits the ground 6-8' feet away. About right?
Click to expand...

Likely. I'd check to make sure the gas tube pin is properly installed and the block itself is lined up properly before tossing it out.

And I would assume that sounds okay for a .300. I don't own a .30-30 AR :)
 
#372
#372
Grand Vol said:
Likely. I'd check to make sure the gas tube pin is properly installed and the block itself is lined up properly before tossing it out.

And I would assume that sounds okay for a .300. I don't own a .30-30 AR :)
Click to expand...

Quit making fun of my little AR.
 
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