Killing/preventing weeds?

#27
#27
Toujours Pret said:
Seems to be much cheaper and less labor intensive ways to get good compost than burying it under weed mat and pine straw.
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Too bad its such a pain in the ass to add nutrients/fertilizer to pine straw. Plus that dang weed mat will never let it through anyway!
:crazy:
 
#28
#28
Obsessed said:
All I'm saying is that if you didn't have pine needles down you would have weeds. The seeds will still germinate.

That mulch under the fabric will be great compost one day. Good job on that.
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My project is 3 years old. No weeds, and my Yoshinos, Kwanzaans, and bloom-n-again azaelas have never thrived like they have now.
 
#29
#29
Toujours Pret said:
Seems to be much cheaper and less labor intensive ways to get good compost than burying it under weed mat and pine straw.
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I mean its already there for new shrubs he may want to plant. Right? It's sitting there? Right? Say he wants to add a couple of azaleas. No need to worry. Good spill already there.


Look at the big picture my man.
 
#32
#32
Toujours Pret said:
The low hanging fruit is the easiest to pick
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And you don't have to buy it alcohol

My buddy use to play this game with his friends at the bar.... It makes me sick to even think about it. Just know ugly fat chicks and cash were involved.
 
#33
#33
Obsessed said:
Great. Thank the pine needles. Acid. I can't say it enough. Acid.
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Thanks for the pine needles tip..

I have been using landscape fabric and mulch and still eat up with weeds. Will definitely give pine needles a try.
 
#34
#34
Gramps said:
Thanks for the pine needles tip..

I have been using landscape fabric and mulch and still eat up with weeds. Will definitely give pine needles a try.
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Putting mulch on top of fabric is a waste of time. Weeds won't come up through the fabric, but new ones can easily send roots through it.

Lay fabric, then put nothing but pine straw on top. Problem solved. Plus, go heavy the first time.
 
#35
#35
Gramps said:
Thanks for the pine needles tip..

I have been using landscape fabric and mulch and still eat up with weeds. Will definitely give pine needles a try.
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Your welcome gramps. If your not planting color and only have shrubs and such in the beds you can use a combo of roundup or generic and Pramitol 25E Herbicide - Ground sterilizer - 1 Gallon:Amazon:patio, Lawn & Garden
Mixed with it. The round up will kill anything there existing and the linked will keep the bed clean for a year. Just cover the shrubs with a trash bag when spraying to prevent any drift from damaging existing shrubs.

You will be golden.

I myself like the mulch. Especially cedar. I generally use listed chemicals. But pine needles can be used and mulched on top to keep the appearance.
 
#36
#36
3775.16.hoe.jpg
 
#37
#37
This again is just for the berms which aren't growing any kind of turf but it does have shrubs which I'm trying not to kill.

Obsessed and bamacheats, I honestly see both your points. I've grown up knowing that when there are pine trees there is acid and when pine trees mix with something like grass lime is sometimes needed to reduce acidity so the grass can thrive. After the persistent weeds I've seriously considered adding the fabric to the top of the berms to help cut down. I think in this case had the pine mulch been added with abundance from the beginning it probably would have cut down on the weeds initially. I think they probably only laid 1 to 2 inches down. With this being TN and having an unusually wet spring/summer it's compounded it. I've followed up with another dose of extended round-up on the remaining weeds.

I don't know if this was coincidence or there is something to it, maybe someone could share their own experience? I sprayed weeds in one yard with regular Round-Up and before I was done with the job some weeds had already begun to brown(30 to 40 minute period). I've sprayed another yard with Round-up Extended and it takes several days to brown. Is this based on product or conditions at the time of spraying?
 
#38
#38
coug said:
This again is just for the berms which aren't growing any kind of turf but it does have shrubs which I'm trying not to kill.

Obsessed and bamacheats, I honestly see both your points. I've grown up knowing that when there are pine trees there is acid and when pine trees mix with something like grass lime is sometimes needed to reduce acidity so the grass can thrive. After the persistent weeds I've seriously considered adding the fabric to the top of the berms to help cut down. I think in this case had the pine mulch been added with abundance from the beginning it probably would have cut down on the weeds initially. I think they probably only laid 1 to 2 inches down. With this being TN and having an unusually wet spring/summer it's compounded it. I've followed up with another dose of extended round-up on the remaining weeds.

I don't know if this was coincidence or there is something to it, maybe someone could share their own experience? I sprayed weeds in one yard with regular Round-Up and before I was done with the job some weeds had already begun to brown(30 to 40 minute period). I've sprayed another yard with Round-up Extended and it takes several days to brown. Is this based on product or conditions at the time of spraying?
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Time of year and conditions when sprayed. When a weed is stressed it generally takes in chemicals slower. To bypass this and increase the speed in which the weed will die simply add some nitrogen to the mixture. The weed sees the fertilizer. Opens up and in essence grows itself to death. The practice can be done year round with great results.
 
#39
#39
Obsessed said:
Time of year and conditions when sprayed. When a weed is stressed it generally takes in chemicals slower. To bypass this and increase the speed in which the weed will die simply add some nitrogen to the mixture. The weed sees the fertilizer. Opens up and in essence grows itself to death. The practice can be done year round with great results.
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Would this be liquid form nitrogen plant spray or some type of granular? This seems risky as nitrogen feeds plant growth so any small or emerging weeds not sprayed with weed killer would be fed making it somewhat counter productive.
 
#40
#40
coug said:
Would this be liquid form nitrogen plant spray or some type of granular? This seems risky as nitrogen feeds plant growth so any small or emerging weeds not sprayed with weed killer would be fed making it somewhat counter productive.
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Either will work. Granule will dissolve. Just mix thoroughly. I understand your point. But it's flawed. If the fertilizer hit the small emerging weed so has the poison. They are both mixed together in the same tank.

This procedure is 100% effective and if it doesn't work the way I tell you to do it, I'll drive there and hand pull the weeds myself.
 
#41
#41
coug said:
My sister had her backyard re-landscaped back in the fall. On either side of her yard they built these berms. The idea was to top the berms with a layer of pine mulch for looks and to control weeds. They didn't initially put enough pine mulch down so she had another 3 inches added to the berms in early June. The problem is that with this unusually wet spring/summer we're having combined with the half approached initial treatment of the berms the weeds are simply relentless. I spread preen all over the berms back in early May. Since then the berms have been sprayed successfully with weed killer over 3 times. It's now needing a 4th spray. I've read online that at a certain point you shouldn't need actual weed block material if you're using pine mulch because the pine mulch acts as it's own weed block. I'm looking for advice on what to do to help control the weeds better. Her backyard gets a lot of sun so I think that's aiding in growth.

Preen and Round-Up Extended control have been used.
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Successfully? But this is your 4th try since May? j/k
 
#43
#43
coug said:
Well, the visible ones turned brown and died at the time.:p

I guess it's a testament to how fast weeds grow.
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Yes. The heat plays a part in that. I've had clover turn black with in 20 mins of spraying.
 
#44
#44
OB need a reco...

I cancelled Scott's lawn care, and want to treat my lawn myself...but instead of using the bad fertilizer....I'd like to just use a spray connected to the house...

Any reco on brands and how frequently should I treat it...

The yards, in good shape, I used Scott's/True Green for the last 3 years....

TIA
 
#45
#45
vol_in_ar said:
OB need a reco...

I cancelled Scott's lawn care, and want to treat my lawn myself...but instead of using the bad fertilizer....I'd like to just use a spray connected to the house...

Any reco on brands and how frequently should I treat it...

The yards, in good shape, I used Scott's/True Green for the last 3 years....

TIA
Click to expand...

Bad fertilizer?
I assume you are wanting to get away from using the ganule fertilizer?
 
#46
#46
yea, I don't want to use a spreader, it's just one more thing to keep up with...I meant bag fertilizer

I've never used the spray, that connects to a hose, and was hoping you had some suggestions
 
#47
#47
vol_in_ar said:
yea, I don't want to use a spreader, it's just one more thing to keep up with...I meant bag fertilizer

I've never used the spray, that connects to a hose, and was hoping you had some suggestions
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Yeah. Let me find the right stuff for you.

All Bermuda correct?
 
#49
#49
While you're at it - I'll take the same recommendation for zoysia. I'd rather have a spray application than something I need to water in. Missed my preemergent chance the last couple years and weeds are coming on strong.

Did some spot spraying with Weed B Gon yesterday and the weeds are showing signs it's working.
 
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#50
#50
Give me a few guys. Things have been crazy. Early spring has us working like mad men.

VIA- I'm trying to find the best set up for you. I'm looking for a good fertilizer/chemical maintenance set up for you. I think ideally, you will be on a 6 week program. (Every six weeks do an application)

You are irrigated and it should work pretty well.

Give me a few though.
 
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