Killing/preventing weeds?

#53
#53
rockydoc said:
Anyone know anything that will kill/eliminate wild African violets in a fescue lawn?
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flamethrower.jpg
 
#54
#54
Obsessed said:
Give me a few guys. Things have been crazy. Early spring has us working like mad men.

VIA- I'm trying to find the best set up for you. I'm looking for a good fertilizer/chemical maintenance set up for you. I think ideally, you will be on a 6 week program. (Every six weeks do an application)

You are irrigated and it should work pretty well.

Give me a few though.
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sounds good

thank you
 
#56
#56
rockydoc said:
Anyone know anything that will kill/eliminate wild African violets in a fescue lawn?
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Any weed control product containing 2,4-d will do it. If it's abundant through the whole lawn I'd recommend a hose end sprayer application as it covers a large area quickly. Ortho Weed-B-Gon, Bayer advanced weed killer, etc. If it's just a few spots you can either buy a premixed bottle with it's own attached sprayer or buy the product concentrated and mix it in your own sprayer and walk around and spray them.
 
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#58
#58
Coug said:
Any weed control product containing 2,4-d will do it. If it's abundant through the whole lawn I'd recommend a hose end sprayer application as it covers a large area quickly. Ortho Weed-B-Gon, Bayer advanced weed killer, etc. If it's just a few spots you can either buy a premixed bottle with it's own attached sprayer or buy the product concentrated and mix it in your own sprayer and walk around and spray them.
Click to expand...

I'll add that now's the time to hit them - I had some luck with the Ortho stuff - got them on Sunday and they are showing signs of the abnormal grow themselves to death activity. In the Summer, they are harder to handle.
 
#59
#59
rockydoc said:
Anyone know anything that will kill/eliminate wild African violets in a fescue lawn?
Click to expand...

They are tough little buggers. It will take several applications AT THE RIGHT SPACINGS to kill it all. They are rhizomeatic and form small tubers under their leaves. Too much herbicide kills the tops before it can move to rhizomes. The large tuberous growth under the leaves absorbs a lot of chemical, but again; too much and you're damaging your turf grass. According to one site, it takes a three pronged attack.
1) Finding clusters and digging out the tubers.
2) Metrosione weed killer. It works by attacking certain weeds ability make chlorophyl. You know it's working because the weeds lose their green and turn white. The broadleaf violets in the yard are exceptionally visible, as are the spidery crabgrass. This goes away. Many violets are killed, many others are just injured.

This spring, 2 wks after the Mesotrione, I then hit it with Bayer Advanced Season Long Weed Control hose end spray that has a multi weed formula containing,
2,4-D, Isoxaben, Mecopop-p, and Dicambra.

Two Mesotrione applications (last fall, this spring) PLUS the Bayer Advanced Season Long per directions have NOT completely killed the infestation I have. Most, yes..but certainly not all.



So for why a violet infestation. For about three years, I didn't apply anything but fertilizer with a standard pre-emergent to my shady north side yard where they showed up because my wife loved them. That side has the violet infestation. A standard pre-emergent kills new plants as they germinate from seeds, but not hardy rhizomatic plants like wild violet.

Early last fall, I had my yard power raked, cleaned and aerated (some places doing the 90°crosshatch twice for four total passes) to virtually till it, then slit seeded with 100 lbs (a little over what's recommended for a new yard) of 'Grande', an improved fescue blend.

https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/bulbs/violet/kill-wild-violets.htm

Wild Violet - TurfFiles

1st pic: Neighbors yard
2nd pic: My front yard
3rd pic: My side yard showing damaged, but not dead, cluster of violets.

However, this is sooo much less than last fall it's not even close.

TL;DR: Getting rid of Violets takes a plan and several seasons. One application of anything won't do it.
 

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#60
#60
that's good advice...keeping a good looking yard, takes either a lot of time or a lot of money to have someone else do it
 
#62
#62
Orangedogsrule said:
They are tough little buggers. It will take several applications AT THE RIGHT SPACINGS to kill it all. They are rhizomeatic and form small tubers under their leaves. Too much herbicide kills the tops before it can move to rhizomes. The large tuberous growth under the leaves absorbs a lot of chemical, but again; too much and you're damaging your turf grass. According to one site, it takes a three pronged attack.
1) Finding clusters and digging out the tubers.
2) Metrosione weed killer. It works by attacking certain weeds ability make chlorophyl. You know it's working because the weeds lose their green and turn white. The broadleaf violets in the yard are exceptionally visible, as are the spidery crabgrass. This goes away. Many violets are killed, many others are just injured.

This spring, 2 wks after the Mesotrione, I then hit it with Bayer Advanced Season Long Weed Control hose end spray that has a multi weed formula containing,
2,4-D, Isoxaben, Mecopop-p, and Dicambra.

Two Mesotrione applications (last fall, this spring) PLUS the Bayer Advanced Season Long per directions have NOT completely killed the infestation I have. Most, yes..but certainly not all.



So for why a violet infestation. For about three years, I didn't apply anything but fertilizer with a standard pre-emergent to my shady north side yard where they showed up because my wife loved them. That side has the violet infestation. A standard pre-emergent kills new plants as they germinate from seeds, but not hardy rhizomatic plants like wild violet.

Early last fall, I had my yard power raked, cleaned and aerated (some places doing the 90°crosshatch twice for four total passes) to virtually till it, then slit seeded with 100 lbs (a little over what's recommended for a new yard) of 'Grande', an improved fescue blend.

https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/bulbs/violet/kill-wild-violets.htm

Wild Violet - TurfFiles

1st pic: Neighbors yard
2nd pic: My front yard
3rd pic: My side yard showing damaged, but not dead, cluster of violets.

However, this is sooo much less than last fall it's not even close.

TL;DR: Getting rid of Violets takes a plan and several seasons. One application of anything won't do it.
Click to expand...
Thanks, that is helpful. I spot sprayed some with Roundup and didn't kill them.
 
#63
#63
rockydoc said:
Thanks, that is helpful. I spot sprayed some with Roundup and didn't kill them.
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You should be very careful spraying Roundup in the lawn. It's best not to do it at all if it can be avoided unless it's being used as an edger. Don't ever use it on a windy day. Funny thing about Roundup is it can really depend on the weather and the state of the plant you are spraying it on. I've seen Roundup work within 5 minutes of spraying and other times it took it a week to kill the plant. Pretty much every time it does the job. I'm fairly certain I accidentally killed a small, 8 foot high, maple sapling with Roundup once. It was in a wooded area of the backyard so it was not an issue.
 
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#65
#65
rockydoc said:
Thanks, that is helpful. I spot sprayed some with Roundup and didn't kill them.
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But I bet you killed some turfgrass around them, eh?

The upper leaves take the brunt of any liquid spray like roundup. And it's usually so heavy a dose it quickly kills the leaves so not enough glyphosphate propagates through them to the tuberous rhizome system underground. Or, it's mixed too light, it does get to the tubers, but they are able to absorb it without completely dying. Damaged, but not dead, in both cases. So it just takes repeated applications until it's gone...or at least I think it is.

Here's where the math is involved.

The herbicide of your choice will have a maximum rate of application per 1000 ft sq per year or season etc. You'll have to follow the mftr's recommendation or risk damaging your turf. Be careful, and good luck.

Actually, a short while after an application, take a garden trowel out there with a bucket and dig a bunch of the tubers out from under the violets that look fairly unaffected by the herbicide. You can fill a kids beach sand bucket and...look what you did.🙄 Made me feel like I knew what I was doing instead of reading all these university/chem company turf grass how to sites to teach myself. But they do help, a lot.
 
#68
#68
VIA-
Your deal is tricky. You can just about use any set up lowes or Home Depot sells. The problem will be the application periods. You may not be able to go 6 weeks between them.

Most granule fertilizers are temp/time released. You will have to play it by ear and see which products work best for you.
 
#69
#69
Obsessed said:
VIA-
Your deal is tricky. You can just about use any set up lowes or Home Depot sells. The problem will be the application periods. You may not be able to go 6 weeks between them.

Most granule fertilizers are temp/time released. You will have to play it by ear and see which products work best for you.
Click to expand...

ok...I'll check HD out, and start on a 6 week cycle, and if I need more frequently I can spray it sooner

thanks
 
#70
#70
Obsessed said:
Yeah. If you want a fungus.
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I'm not saying drown it. I have only had a fungus once in 35 years. Dollar spot and the hose spray treatment got it immediately.

Follow standard watering as given on numerable websites and no problem.
 
#73
#73
Awesome thread.

Obsessed can you give me advice on steps to get my backyard in shape. Did some home remodeling a few years back and have let my backyard get away from me. It is now a form of various grasses, weeds, and bare spots.

If I wanted to do the work myself, can you tell me the steps to take?
Can I rent an aerator and seeder and go from there? Living in Knoxville, what would be the best type of grass seed to go with? Is there something that would overtake everything else thus giving me some uniformity?
 
#74
#74
allvol123 said:
Awesome thread.

Obsessed can you give me advice on steps to get my backyard in shape. Did some home remodeling a few years back and have let my backyard get away from me. It is now a form of various grasses, weeds, and bare spots.

If I wanted to do the work myself, can you tell me the steps to take?
Can I rent an aerator and seeder and go from there? Living in Knoxville, what would be the best type of grass seed to go with? Is there something that would overtake everything else thus giving me some uniformity?
Click to expand...

I'll be happy to help. At least point you in the right direction.

This time of year, go to your local co-op and pick up some generic 2,4-D and a back pack sprayer (if you want some dye pick it up too)

Mix it at 4-6 ounces per gallon of water. (If the lawn is in bad shape, bump it to 8-10 ounces per gallon.)

Spray the hell out of it. Soak it good.

Then apply a good quality fertilizer and give it a few days and when the weeds start to wilt you can go ahead and mow it. If the temps stay pretty low it will take longer for the chemical to work.

Once we get the broadleaf weeds eliminated we can attack the grassy weeds. (Temps need to be warmer for them to be handled)

If you feel like it, post up a pic of your back yard. It will make a few things easier to get you the fastest results.
 
#75
#75
Obsessed said:
4-6 ounces per gallon of water. Spray until wet. Let it stand for 36 hours before mowing.

Do not mow first. You will get a better kill rate if you spray before mowing it.
Click to expand...

Suggestions for whole lawn application? Do those hose attachments allow you to choose the mix rate?

Been using Weed B Gon and the Bayer product in a spot sprayer.
 
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