Hiking Thread

[Rishvol]

Accidentally Sitting Down Next To a Rattlesnake In The Forest - Video | KillSomeTime.com

I couldn't help but laugh. That would be terrifying though

 

[Ulysees E. McGill]

Thanks. Not sure if we will make it to Tetons or not. A lot depends on weather. Understood about high elevation - I have hiked at that elevation in the distant past but will definitely take it easy.

If you go to Yellowstone/Grand Teton in early to mid June, where you hike will be determined a lot by how much snow is still on the ground imo. When we went in mid June 2011 Lewis Lake was still frozen over and there was many feet of snow still on the ground just about everywhere over 7000 feet in the area, but that was following a really late and hard winter in the northern Rockies which I was told was the worst in 50 years by Rangers and locals.

The weather and trail conditions could be problematic for you in June, but the wildlife is going to be amazing at that time. All the animals will have young ones.

What kind of hikes were you looking to do?

 

[Volosaurus rex]

OldandStillaVol, now that I’ve had a good night’s sleep, the first question that comes to mind is have you been to Yellowstone before? If you haven’t, it will be most productive to think of the park itself, as others have suggested, as only part of the greater Yellowstone ecosystem, which also includes the Tetons, by which I mean Grand Teton National Park as well as the quieter, less visited western side of the range near Driggs, Tetonia, and Victor, Idaho, plus the Beartooth Mountains along the Wyoming-Montana border.

Given the time frame that you have to work with, identify how much time you want to allocate to each of the major components of the greater Yellowstone ecosystem. I understand the fascination with Yellowstone; it became our first national park for good reason. It possesses thermal features on a scale unrivalled by anywhere in the world, due to the fact that it sits on top of an enormous geological hot spot that has fueled supervolcanic caldera-forming eruption after caldera-forming eruption for the last 14-16 million years. Therefore, you certainly will want to pay your obligatory respects to Old Faithful. I would also emphasize Grand Prismatic Spring; it is the third-largest spring in the world. More importantly, it is a brilliant, multi-colored pool that, viewed from above, looks like an enormous bloodshot eye. See Grand Prismatic Spring at Yellowstone's Midway Geyser Basin - My Yellowstone Park.

Are you much of a wildlife viewing enthusiast? If so, bring binoculars and, if possible, a spotting scope. Yellowstone has probably the most complete assemblage of wildlife anywhere in the lower 48. If you spend any significant amount of time in Yellowstone, it is almost a given that you will see lots of buffalo and elk. With a bit of luck and planning, you could see grizzlies, wolves and eagles. Your best chances of viewing griz are at “Dawn and dusk in the Hayden and Lamar valleys” (Grizzly Bears - Yellowstone National Park (U.S. National Park Service)). The Lamar valley is also an area that is heavily frequented by the Yellowstone wolf population (Yellowstone Wolves | Learn about Yellowstone National Park's gray wolves - My Yellowstone Park).

If you are more attracted to jawdroppingly gorgeous alpine scenery, a spiritual form of Rocky Mountain fever to which I am personally susceptible, then I would recommend that you allocate your time almost evenly between time spent in Yellowstone NP and the Tetons/Beartooths. With the exception of the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone, the park itself is essentially a lodgepole pine-covered plateau, albeit one punctuated by numerous geyser basins, waterfalls and lakes. Keep in mind, too, that Yellowstone NP is an enormous park, so prioritize your destinations based on your personal interests.

 

[Volosaurus rex]

What month will you be visiting the area? If it is June, traffic will be less than peak season (July-August) and snowpack in surrounding mountains will be greater. If you also choose to visit the Tetons, which I heartily recommend, DO NOT neglect the quieter, less visited western side of the range. This webpage on the Teton Scenic Byway should convince you why: Teton Scenic Byway Idaho. If you follow this advice, you will also find that the short Mesa Falls Scenic Byway (Trip Planning for: Idaho Highway Byway Mesa Falls Scenic Byway) provides a superb complement to the Teton Scenic Byway.

Incidentally, it is wise to have a few bad-weather options in your quiver when planning a visit to the Northern Rockies. I personally drove through a blizzard (yes, a blizzard) when I first traversed the Beartooth Highway in mid-August, 1978. You may not need to play the bad-weather cards, but one that I would highly recommend is the Buffalo Bill Center of the West (https://centerofthewest.org/), formerly known as the Buffalo Bill Historical Center, located in Cody, Wyoming. It is essentially five museums housed under one roof. The National Museum of Wildlife Art (Wildlife Art - National Museum of Wildlife Art | Jackson Hole WY), located in Jackson, would be another excellent option, as would the Museum of the Rockies (Welcome To MOR | Museum of the Rockies), which is located on the campus of Montana State University in Bozeman and is best known for its paleontological collections of dinosaur fossils.

Finally, in all of my years of touring the Rocky Mountains, I have never encountered a more comprehensive, information-packed visitor center than the Jackson Hole and Greater Yellowstone Visitor Center, which is located on the southwest corner of the National Elk Refuge at 532 N. Cache Street in Jackson (https://www.fs.usda.gov/recarea/btnf/recarea/?recid=81599 and https://www.fws.gov/nwrs/threecolumn.aspx?id=2147509813). It should be viewed as a must-stop for first-time visitors to the area.

 

[Volosaurus rex]

Here is the park service’s guide to day hikes in Yellowstone (Day Hiking Guides - Yellowstone National Park (U.S. National Park Service)), with info on hiking in grizzly country (Hiking in Bear Country - Yellowstone National Park (U.S. National Park Service)), if you have not done so previously.

 

[OldandStillaVol]

Thanks VRex - lots of good stuff for us to think about. We are going with another family so there will be 4 adults/3 kids all over 10 years old. None of us have been to Yellowstone before. From what you wrote, I am thinking first priority is the Canyon area, followed by Prismatic Springs would be good choices for 3-5 mile round trip hikes.

We are going 3rd week in June so I am expecting snow on the ground in places. Hopefully daytime weather will be good for hiking.

 

[Volosaurus rex]

Here is the link to a webpage about that most iconic of Yellowstone features, Old Faithful: Explore the Old Faithful Area - Yellowstone National Park (U.S. National Park Service). It isn’t the largest or the most predictable geyser in Yellowstone, but it is the largest, predictable geyser that erupts frequently in Yellowstone. Old Faithful erupts on average every 60-90 minutes, depending on the length and size of the previous eruption.

As soon as you reach the Old Faithful parking area, head straight for the visitor center. They will have the next predicted eruption time prominently displayed. If you want the best possible view, don’t wait too long to make your way to the boardwalk area. You literally could have thousands of fellow visitors jockeying for position. And, here, is the link to a webcam where you can watch Old Faithful erupt live: Webcams - Yellowstone National Park (U.S. National Park Service).

 

[Volosaurus rex]

Here is the link to the Park Service’s frequently asked questions’ page concerning the Canyon Village area: Frequently Asked Questions: Canyon Village - Yellowstone National Park (U.S. National Park Service).

Note their response to this question: “Where can I see the canyon and falls?

North Rim Drive: Walkways at Lookout Point and Brink of the Lower Falls lead to views of both waterfalls. The longest stretch of accessible trail can be accessed from parking lots at Lookout or Grand View. You can also see the Lower Falls from Red Rock and Inspiration points.

South Rim Drive: See the Lower Falls at Artist Point, from Uncle Tom’s Trail, and from a few places along the South Rim Trail; see the Upper Falls from two viewpoints at Uncle Tom’s Point.

Visit Brink of Upper Falls from a viewing area just off the Grand Loop Road south of Canyon Junction, between the entrances to North and South Rim drives.”

And, here, is the link to their virtual tour of the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone and its associated features: Yellowstone National Park - Virtual Tour - Canyon.

Note also their comments with respect to Uncle Tom’s Trail:

“For an unparalleled canyon and waterfall experience, take a deep breath and descend this trail. A series of paved declines and more than 300 steps lead you about 500 feet (150 m) down into the canyon. Your destination is a platform from which you can see, hear, and feel the power of the Lower Falls.

This strenuous trail is not recommended for people with heart, lung, or other health conditions. Much of the walk is constructed of perforated steel sheeting, so you should wear comfortable, flat-heeled walking shoes. Also watch out for ice in the early morning or in the spring or fall. This trail is closed in winter and subject to closures in the spring and fall due to poor conditions.”

 

[Volosaurus rex]

Thanks VRex - lots of good stuff for us to think about. We are going with another family so there will be 4 adults/3 kids all over 10 years old. None of us have been to Yellowstone before. From what you wrote, I am thinking first priority is the Canyon area, followed by Prismatic Springs would be good choices for 3-5 mile round trip hikes.

We are going 3rd week in June so I am expecting snow on the ground in places. Hopefully daytime weather will be good for hiking.

To the extent that it is possible, try to get your hikes in during the morning and very early portions of the afternoon. I do not recall having been in Yellowstone during the precise time frame of your projected visit, but June tends to be a month that the Rockies brew up thunderstorms, almost like clockwork, in the late afternoons.

 

[Volosaurus rex]

A critically important note: Be sure to inquire at the Canyon Village Visitor Center to verify the following information regarding trail closures for maintenance in the Canyon area:

“UPDATE: 2017 - 2019 Canyon Area Construction Projects

Canyon Trail Closures
Due to an increase in resource damage caused by social-trails, Uncle Tom's and the South Rim trails are closed to travel.
• All areas north of South Rim Drive are closed to travel (see map below).
• The closure will likely remain in effect until construction is complete in the fall of 2019.
• Artist Point remains open.
• The Park Service will continue to offer the Canyon Rim Walk program, with the direction rerouted downstream toward Point Sublime” (Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone - Points of Interest).

 

[Ulysees E. McGill]

Thanks VRex - lots of good stuff for us to think about. We are going with another family so there will be 4 adults/3 kids all over 10 years old. None of us have been to Yellowstone before. From what you wrote, I am thinking first priority is the Canyon area, followed by Prismatic Springs would be good choices for 3-5 mile round trip hikes.

We are going 3rd week in June so I am expecting snow on the ground in places. Hopefully daytime weather will be good for hiking.

Not Rex, but I am a lover of all things Yellowstone. At the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone
It is a short but pretty steep hike on the Brink trail down to the brink of the lower falls..aka the big falls..the Upper falls hike is also short and less steep. There are many overlooks and points along the way on both rims and you can drive to them to save time...my favorite is Uncle Tom's trail although I'm not sure when the stairs will reopen as they have been rebuilding the trails and stairs in that area. You have to see Grand View, Artists and Inspiration points.

I loved every single thermal area, we walked over 30 miles in 3 days just in the thermal areas in 2011. We did every single one in 20011 except for West thumb geyser basin which is right on Yellowstone lake as it was closed due to a herd of Elk with calves that had taken up residence.

Make a plan and stick to it or you will waste many hours retracing steps over the Grand Loop. I can not express how important time management is going to be. I researched my itinerary for a year and a half before I went and nailed it.

You also better have alternate plans for bad weather days, all the visitor centers and the Old Faithful Inn are must see, and are good spots to get out of the weather and spend some time in..

I wish I could take you, I guarantee you wouldn't miss anything unless you are into multiday backcountry hikes..I can't do those.

There is just soooooooo much to see and do in Greater Yellowstone. It is my favorite place on earth.

You will have an awesome time if you are a nature lover no matter what happens..I promise you that.

 

[Ulysees E. McGill]

Here is the link to a webpage about that most iconic of Yellowstone features, Old Faithful: Explore the Old Faithful Area - Yellowstone National Park (U.S. National Park Service). It isn’t the largest or the most predictable geyser in Yellowstone, but it is the largest, predictable geyser that erupts frequently in Yellowstone. Old Faithful erupts on average every 60-90 minutes, depending on the length and size of the previous eruption.

As soon as you reach the Old Faithful parking area, head straight for the visitor center. They will have the next predicted eruption time prominently displayed. If you want the best possible view, don’t wait too long to make your way to the boardwalk area. You literally could have thousands of fellow visitors jockeying for position. And, here, is the link to a webcam where you can watch Old Faithful erupt live: Webcams - Yellowstone National Park (U.S. National Park Service).

We usually go straight past the OFI all the way down to Morning Glory pool and then circle back across the Firehole river to Geyser Hill and back across the river to the Old Faithful visitor center or the OFI to rest up and wait on the next eruption.

If you just see Old Faithful and don't do the whole Upper Geyser basin you are really missing out on some awesome geysers and springs. It takes a good 5-6 hours to walk that area and see OF and the OFI and Visitor Center.

 

[Ulysees E. McGill]

A critically important note: Be sure to inquire at the Canyon Village Visitor Center to verify the following information regarding trail closures for maintenance in the Canyon area:

“UPDATE: 2017 - 2019 Canyon Area Construction Projects

Canyon Trail Closures
Due to an increase in resource damage caused by social-trails, Uncle Tom's and the South Rim trails are closed to travel.
• All areas north of South Rim Drive are closed to travel (see map below).
• The closure will likely remain in effect until construction is complete in the fall of 2019.
• Artist Point remains open.
• The Park Service will continue to offer the Canyon Rim Walk program, with the direction rerouted downstream toward Point Sublime” (Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone - Points of Interest).

Yep..unfortunately they were closed when we went in September. The trail to Red Rock point is a spectacular also, and it is open. I prefer the view from the end of the Uncle Tom's trail as it is even closer to the falls, but Red Rock point is the only other hike that goes down into the canyon and will be the only way to do so if UTs is still closed in June. I love it also, there are no bad walks there.

 

[Volosaurus rex]

To reiterate Ulysees’ points, bad-weather contingency plans are critically important in the Northern Rockies, particularly with children and especially if this may be a once-in-a-lifetime trip. There would be nothing more frustrating than to be sidelined by bad weather without viable, pre-planned indoor options. To illustrate this point, I spent roughly six weeks in Glacier during the late summer-early fall of 1978. Unfortunately, much of that period was spent in an endless cycle consisting of two days of rainy squalls, followed by one day of good hiking weather, repeat ad nauseum. On one particular day, I was in the St. Mary Visitor Center, with nothing better to do than watch the weather gauges on display. One particularly strong gust peaked at 73 miles per hour, just as a motorcyclist passed through the entrance station to the park. The gust broad-sided his bike, turned him around in the middle of the road, and he immediately proceeded to head back out of the park.

Conversely, it helps to be able to adjust your itinerary on the fly, if possible, to particularly good weather. Here, I am thinking most specifically of the weather forecast and its impact on access to the Beartooth Highway. If this is your only opportunity to visit the greater Yellowstone ecosystem and you fail to traverse the Beartooth Highway, when weather was favorable, you will regret it. The Beartooths are, quite simply, that spectacular. Just remember that the Beartooth Plateau is above timberline, approaching 11,000 feet, so pack your fleece. This underscores another important point with respect to travel in the Northern Rockies. For comfort and warmth, you need to think in terms of dressing in layers that will allow you to adjust to a wide variety of weather conditions, including rain gear.

Like Ulysees, my ultimate goal is for each future trip to be better than the preceding one, based on research and planning. In the Northern Rockies, an important part of that is coming up with palatable options in the event of inclement weather.

 

[Ulysees E. McGill]

To the extent that it is possible, try to get your hikes in during the morning and very early portions of the afternoon. I do not recall having been in Yellowstone during the precise time frame of your projected visit, but June tends to be a month that the Rockies brew up thunderstorms, almost like clockwork, in the late afternoons.

We were specifically in YNP from the 16th to the 19th of June 20011. It was still just socked in with snow at anything over 7000 feet. It actually snowed on the 18th with no accumulation in the lower altitudes, but it shut down the Beartooth hwy. In the week were in the GTNP/YNP area we experienced all kinds of weather. The temps ranged from the 20s to the 70s. It was wild to see how extreme it could be.

 

[Ulysees E. McGill]

To reiterate Ulysees’ points, bad-weather contingency plans are critically important in the Northern Rockies, particularly with children and especially if this may be a once-in-a-lifetime trip. There would be nothing more frustrating than to be sidelined by bad weather without viable, pre-planned indoor options. To illustrate this point, I spent roughly six weeks in Glacier during the late summer-early fall of 1978. Unfortunately, much of that period was spent in an endless cycle consisting of two days of rainy squalls, followed by one day of good hiking weather, repeat ad nauseum. On one particular day, I was in the St. Mary Visitor Center, with nothing better to do than watch the weather gauges on display. One particularly strong gust peaked at 73 miles per hour, just as a motorcyclist passed through the entrance station to the park. The gust broad-sided his bike, turned him around in the middle of the road, and he immediately proceeded to head back out of the park.

Like Ulysees, my ultimate goal is for each future trip to be better than the preceding one, based on research and planning. In the Northern Rockies, an important part of that is coming up with palatable options in the event of inclement weather.

I highly agree. Our trip itinerary this past September was just obliterated by four days of snow which shut down the roads every morning till they could then cleared. It hadn't rained or snowed a drop for weeks before we got there or two weeks after..lol.


I still loved every minute of it.

 

[JFreak]

Dang, I'm planning a 30-day cross country road trip beginning in early September. Will be starting in Yosemite and heading east. Will be towing a travel trailer and was really hoping the northern route would be free of snow. Guess that's not a safe assumption.

 

[Ulysees E. McGill]

We haven't mentioned Mammoth Hot springs yet which is like every other place in the park just spectacular..my suggestion..hit ever inch of boardwalk and trail there and make sure you go all the way to the very top springs.


Every thermal area has a map that shows where every feature is...those maps are crucial to get. Every Visitor Center will have them.

 

[Ulysees E. McGill]

Dang, I'm planning a 30-day cross country road trip beginning in early September. Will be starting in Yosemite and heading east. Will be towing a travel trailer and was really hoping the northern route would be free of snow. Guess that's not a safe assumption.

It all depends on your route and just luck. Have alternate scenic routes already planned and keep an eye on the weather forecasts for where you are going a couple of days ahead. We were just unlucky this past September, but like I say, any time spent traveling in the beautiful scenic American West is not wasted time.

 

[Volosaurus rex]

Dang, I'm planning a 30-day cross country road trip beginning in early September. Will be starting in Yosemite and heading east. Will be towing a travel trailer and was really hoping the northern route would be free of snow. Guess that's not a safe assumption.

It’s not a safe assumption, but you aren’t guaranteed bad weather either. How far along are you in planning and what does your itinerary look like at this point?

Late September in the Northern Rockies can be iffy in terms of snow, but, on the other hand, sometimes the high-country weather “gods” will bless you. My first trip to the Rockies/Cascades/Sierras was in the fall of 1976. From the time I arrived in Glacier around the 23rd of September until the time I finally left Sequoia/Kings Canyon and Yosemite in early November, the weather was utterly perfect. The only rainfall encountered in Olympic National Park, the rainiest spot in the lower 48, occurred at night and did not impact travel or backcountry plans in the slightest.

I consider late September and early October to be a sacred time in the Central and Northern Rockies. ‘tis when the Creator flexes his artistic muscles and says, in an unspoken voice, “This, my children, is how a true artist does it.” Fall foliage is at its peak, elk are bugling in the canyons, and parks and backcountry are largely deserted by the masses . . . it simply does not get any better than that. (In fact, during the '76 trip, many of my campsites in national parks and national forests were free, albeit without services, since fee stations had closed for the season.)

You could stay at St. Mary KOA in Glacier (St Mary, Montana Campground | St. Mary / East Glacier KOA) during this time and practically be guaranteed of being serenaded by elk bugling at dusk. How many campsites can you reserve in advance with that kind of incentive? Not many.

Hope for the best weather wise, but definitely plan for inclement conditions, both in terms of the equipment you carry and clothing you wear. These kinds of views are, in my opinion, most definitely worth the higher risk of snow: chief mountain fall colors blue sky | Tony Bynum Photography - People - Life - Land, Autumn Photography in Glacier National Park. - ~ • ~ • ~ • ~ The Hole Picture • Daryl L. HunterThe Hole Picture, and, with respect to the San Juan Mountains in southwestern Colorado, Autumn Photo Shoot, San Juan MountainsThe Hole Picture.

 

[Volosaurus rex]

We usually go straight past the OFI all the way down to Morning Glory pool and then circle back across the Firehole river to Geyser Hill and back across the river to the Old Faithful visitor center or the OFI to rest up and wait on the next eruption.

If you just see Old Faithful and don't do the whole Upper Geyser basin you are really missing out on some awesome geysers and springs. It takes a good 5-6 hours to walk that area and see OF and the OFI and Visitor Center.

Is the rumor true that the brilliance of Morning Glory Pool has diminished somewhat due to visitors having thrown significant amounts of garbage into its vent?

 

[Volosaurus rex]

We were specifically in YNP from the 16th to the 19th of June 20011. It was still just socked in with snow at anything over 7000 feet. It actually snowed on the 18th with no accumulation in the lower altitudes, but it shut down the Beartooth hwy. In the week were in the GTNP/YNP area we experienced all kinds of weather. The temps ranged from the 20s to the 70s. It was wild to see how extreme it could be.

Here is a video shot from the Beartooth Highway just two days prior to the storm that you referenced on the 18th that closed the highway: Driving Montana and Wyoming's Beartooth Pass June, 16, 2011 - YouTube. Again, these points underscore the importance of seizing the advantage of good weather if, and when, the Creator chooses to bless you in this way.

 

[JFreak]

Thanks for the advice gents. Not going to plan any strict timeline, but will have primary, secondary, and tertiary routes in mind while paying close attention to the weather. Had not considered GNP.. that looks incredible.

 

[Volosaurus rex]

If those photos whet your appetite for Glacier, this website should have you positively drooling in anticipation: Glacier National Park Montana - Glacier Park Montana - Glacier NP. Like many national parks, Glacier has seen a dramatic spike in visitation during the last five years, but, should you make it up there during late September, you will experience a degree of solitude that is hard to find in the lower 48. I have posted a lot of data on Glacier in earlier portions of this thread (see pages 13-16, posts 370-462), so feel free to peruse for additional information.

 

[Ulysees E. McGill]

Is the rumor true that the brilliance of Morning Glory Pool has diminished somewhat due to visitors having thrown significant amounts of garbage into its vent?

Not garbage, but coins and stones. And it is like saying the Sistine Chapel ceiling is not as beautiful as the day it was finished by Michaelangelo.