The Golf Thread

And have you played Furman. I've heard it's a challenge, but a good course. From what i've been told it's head and shoulders above the Walker Course at Clemson
 
Looks beautiful. Depending on how long ago it was, Cobbs could've been pretty good, or really bad. I don't think i have ever seen a course been let go of so much. There has been state amateurs held at cobbs. But it has just gone downhill. How are the Links O Tryon? I have also played Bonnie Brae, that is a FUN course!

It's probably been close to 10 years when I played Cobbs Glenn. It was decent then. Played Bonnie Brae this past Saturday, it was pretty good. Links use to be pretty nice. Played back in winter & the bunkers were atrocious. Played again a couple months ago & it was better but not great. Coming from Anderson it's not worth the trip. I'd recommend Cherokee Valley or Village Greens before it. Willow Creek is pretty nice but they're more proud of it than it's worth. Woodfin Ridge is another one maybe worth the trip.
 
And have you played Furman. I've heard it's a challenge, but a good course. From what i've been told it's head and shoulders above the Walker Course at Clemson

Ive played both but not recently. Furman was probably the longest course I've ever played. Clemson wasn't extremely long. I'd say both were comparable as far as condition & both were pretty nice.

Oh yea. Lol. I remember one of the yardage markers on one of the par 5s at Furman. All it said was "all you got!"
 
Somebody give me some drills that worked for you about releasing the club. I don't really have a slice anymore but more of a fade. I still want it completely out of my swing unless I need to hit that shot on the course.

I've watched all kind of videos I just can't put it together on the course. I've never been able to play a draw to save my life. Would be nice to work on it this summer.

I know my biggest problem is my club coming on an outside to inside path causing the slice/fade.
 
Somebody give me some drills that worked for you about releasing the club. I don't really have a slice anymore but more of a fade. I still want it completely out of my swing unless I need to hit that shot on the course.

I've watched all kind of videos I just can't put it together on the course. I've never been able to play a draw to save my life. Would be nice to work on it this summer.

I know my biggest problem is my club coming on an outside to inside path causing the slice/fade.


IMO the "release" is just something that happens & not really a conscious thing you have to think about. If you're hitting the ball solid just trying tweaking some fundamentals like grip & ball position.
 
New driver came today. Got a Cleveland Classic 290 off eBay for $37. Just something to try.

I'm hitting the 287 XL. I'd have never thought twice about buying a Cleveland driver, but I got in a simulator and hit about 7 drivers and it performed by far better than anything else I hit.
 
I'm hitting the 287 XL. I'd have never thought twice about buying a Cleveland driver, but I got in a simulator and hit about 7 drivers and it performed by far better than anything else I hit.

It has a nice profile. The face is extremely deep which makes the head look smaller at address which I like. It also has a ton of good reviews but doesn't get much pub. It has a Winn grip on it that I'll be changing ASAP.
 
It has a nice profile. The face is extremely deep which makes the head look smaller at address which I like. It also has a ton of good reviews but doesn't get much pub. It has a Winn grip on it that I'll be changing ASAP.

Like I said, I'd never have remotely thought of it if I hadn't seen the stats with my own two eyes. For whatever reason, my ball RPMs went way down with the Cleveland vs everything else. Another strange thing . . . It's a 9* driver with a deep face, but I can hit it off the deck without much of a problem which I haven't really been doing much in the past 10 years as driver heads have gotten bigger.
 
Like I said, I'd never have remotely thought of it if I hadn't seen the stats with my own two eyes. For whatever reason, my ball RPMs went way down with the Cleveland vs everything else. Another strange thing . . . It's a 9* driver with a deep face, but I can hit it off the deck without much of a problem which I haven't really been doing much in the past 10 years as driver heads have gotten bigger.

You got the Miyazaki shaft?
 

Have you changed the grip? I know stock they come with a lightweight grip that's obsolete now. The butt end of the shaft is also bigger which isn't an issue it'll just make a standard grip feel a little bigger. Anyway a standard grip is gonna be approx 10g heavier than the oem grip. Maybe I'm being OCD but will/has it play(ed) any different. I know the grip was factored in to the design of the club.
 
Have you changed the grip? I know stock they come with a lightweight grip that's obsolete now. The butt end of the shaft is also bigger which isn't an issue it'll just make a standard grip feel a little bigger. Anyway a standard grip is gonna be approx 10g heavier than the oem grip. Maybe I'm being OCD but will/has it play(ed) any different. I know the grip was factored in to the design of the club.

I regripped it to match the rest of my clubs which happens to be a -1/16" grip with a .58 core. So, I'm probably close to the original grip weight anyway.

I think the whole grip weight thing is overplayed though. I was in a simulator that was measuring everything and watching my spin rate and swing speeds like a hawk. My swing speed variances were negligible from driver to driver.
 
only pic I took in Austin. One thing I notice is that the view from the eye on a golf course is hard to catch on a camera phone. But look at the hills and houses. I didn't picture Austin like that at all.
Austin.jpg
 
Now you've got me being OCD. I just checked and the standard .58 tour wrap is 50 grams. The -1/16 grip is 43 grams. I still don't think a few grams of dead weight on the butt end is going to matter much.
 
I regripped it to match the rest of my clubs which happens to be a -1/16" grip with a .58 core. So, I'm probably close to the original grip weight anyway.

I think the whole grip weight thing is overplayed though. I was in a simulator that was measuring everything and watching my spin rate and swing speeds like a hawk. My swing speed variances were negligible from driver to driver.

I'm just gonna put my regular grip I use. The golf pride ndmc is a .600 core going over a .650 butt end so it will play probably close to a midsize grip. There's about 10g difference like I said before but it's not like it's all right at the butt end so I don't think it will have much affect either.
 
I'm just gonna put my regular grip I use. The golf pride ndmc is a .600 core going over a .650 butt end so it will play probably close to a midsize grip. There's about 10g difference like I said before but it's not like it's all right at the butt end so I don't think it will have much affect either.

It's completely low tech, but you could always just cut the bottom inch or two off the grip before you put it on. It doesn't take much to save 10g.

Come to think of it, I wonder why people don't do that anyway to save weight? Nobody chokes up 3 inches on a driver.
 
It's completely low tech, but you could always just cut the bottom inch or two off the grip before you put it on. It doesn't take much to save 10g.

Come to think of it, I wonder why people don't do that anyway to save weight? Nobody chokes up 3 inches on a driver.

True. I've never given much thought to grip weight but this has made me realize there's not many options as far as lightweight grips go. There's a couple around 25g then it jumps to mid 40s & up. Also the shaft being .650 with two basic core sizes .580 & .600 is odd too. They're doable but it's gonna leave you with a slightly larger than standard grip no matter what.
 
Went with a standard tour velvet, they're easier to work with & I can stretch it out a good bit. Hard to find a grip with anything close to a .650 core.
 
I don't think I've ever even heard of a core that big.

It's odd for sure. Not sure the old bubble shafts where that big. I think your driver is essentially the same as mine just the head was given a black paint job & the shaft was redesigned with more standard dimensions but with the same characteristics.


* actually after some research the old bubble shafts were .680 & there's grips on eBay for them. They also weight only 35 grams. With an extra wrap of tape that may just be perfect.
 
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