Things built, torn down and other projects.(Pictures)

@Orangeslice13 and others who have experience with electrical conduit, any info and advice would be welcomed and gratefully appreciated!

For next year in the veg garden, I’m going to start rotating crops, due to the issues with soil-borne diseases. I trellis (or try to trellis) the tall indeterminate tomatoes, which easily grow 8’ or more. The trellis will move each year.

I’m looking at two uprights, 7-8’ tall, and a cross piece that is 14-16’ long. (Three beds are 14’ long, while the other is 16’.) The uprights would slip over rebar driven into the ground.

Question: would a single piece of conduit support 5 or 6 (yes! I’m cutting back! Really!) heavy tomato plants, each trained into three up-growing stalks? Should I add an additional upright over rebar in the center with a T-connector for more support? And what diameter of rebar and conduit would you recommend? I’m leaning toward metal, since I kind of hate PVC, and the trellis will only be up May-Sept/Oct.

The trellis would look something like this, which does have a center support:

View attachment 382166
Question: would a single piece of conduit support 5 or 6 (yes! I’m cutting back! Really!) heavy tomato plants, each trained into three up-growing stalks? Yes, the right size will easily

Should I add an additional upright over rebar in the center with a T-connector for more support? Yes, 14' - 16' runs will sag especially with weight.

And what diameter of rebar and conduit would you recommend? 1/2" - 5/8" diameter rebar will work. Schedule 80 (thicker walls) 1 1/4" inside diameter is my recommendation. Easier to cut, it's lighter & can drill holes & use screws for the 90* & "T" connections

Will you be pulling the rebar out of the ground each year?
 
I'd go no less than 3/4 emt with 4 uprights due to length, imo.
Four? So 3 1/2-4’ on center? Thanks. I’m happy to overbuild rather than underbuild any day.

One of our goofy tunnel trellises (bendy 4’ wide panels with 2x4 openings) sagged yesterday when I was clipping on more vines. No damage down, but I felt pretty stupid standing there supporting it with my head while Hubs got an emergency prop. 🤪
 
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Question: would a single piece of conduit support 5 or 6 (yes! I’m cutting back! Really!) heavy tomato plants, each trained into three up-growing stalks? Yes, the right size will easily

Should I add an additional upright over rebar in the center with a T-connector for more support? Yes, 14' - 16' runs will sag especially with weight.

And what diameter of rebar and conduit would you recommend? 1/2" - 5/8" diameter rebar will work. Schedule 80 (thicker walls) 1 1/4" inside diameter is my recommendation. Easier to cut, it's lighter & can drill holes & use screws for the 90* & "T" connections

Will you be pulling the rebar out of the ground each year?
Thanks!

Yes on the rebar, if we can get it out after driving it 15-18” in the ground. 🤪 (Heavy clay under the fluffier growing layer.) Our 4-year-old grandson has no fear and loves to tear up and down the paths, and we don’t want him to trip and get impaled.

Us either, for that matter.
 
Four? So 3 1/2-4’ on center? Thanks. I’m happy to overbuild rather than underbuild any day.

One of our goofy tunnel trellises (bendy 4’ wide panels with 2x4 openings sagged yesterday when I was clipping on more vines. No damage down, but I felt pretty stupid standing there supporting it with my head while Hubs got an emergency prop. 🤪
@Orange Sunset hit the nail on the head.
 
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Four? So 3 1/2-4’ on center? Thanks. I’m happy to overbuild rather than underbuild any day.

One of our goofy tunnel trellises (bendy 4’ wide panels with 2x4 openings) sagged yesterday when I was clipping on more vines. No damage down, but I felt pretty stupid standing there supporting it with my head while Hubs got an emergency prop. 🤪
Our little oopsie yesterday. It’s what I get for dithering on how to create supports for the arch.

I’m guessing that I will be building something of a triangular nature (not worth the trouble of creating a true arch).

5C02D7B3-375A-43ED-B7FD-A8DA6A5570BC.jpegB53E1483-97AA-4F1C-9FA9-4837B7D39ACB.jpeg
 
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Our little oopsie yesterday. It’s what I get for dithering on how to create supports for the arch.

I’m guessing that I will be building something of a triangular nature (not worth the trouble of creating a true arch).

View attachment 382178View attachment 382179
We did something similar several years ago when we were limited on space. We used PVC pipe to make the arches. It's bendy to a certain extent and you can glue it into a joint using joint compound so that it doesn't slip out.
 
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Thanks!

Yes on the rebar, if we can get it out after driving it 15-18” in the ground. 🤪 (Heavy clay under the fluffier growing layer.) Our 4-year-old grandson has no fear and loves to tear up and down the paths, and we don’t want him to trip and get impaled.

Us either, for that matter.

"Its so easy even a woman can do it"

 
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@Orangeslice13 and others who have experience with electrical conduit, any info and advice would be welcomed and gratefully appreciated!

For next year in the veg garden, I’m going to start rotating crops, due to the issues with soil-borne diseases. I trellis (or try to trellis) the tall indeterminate tomatoes, which easily grow 8’ or more. The trellis will move each year.

I’m looking at two uprights, 7-8’ tall, and a cross piece that is 14-16’ long. (Three beds are 14’ long, while the other is 16’.) The uprights would slip over rebar driven into the ground.

Question: would a single piece of conduit support 5 or 6 (yes! I’m cutting back! Really!) heavy tomato plants, each trained into three up-growing stalks? Should I add an additional upright over rebar in the center with a T-connector for more support? And what diameter of rebar and conduit would you recommend? I’m leaning toward metal, since I kind of hate PVC, and the trellis will only be up May-Sept/Oct.

The trellis would look something like this, which does have a center support:

View attachment 382166
What Mal said plus use schedule 80 pipe
 
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We did something similar several years ago when we were limited on space. We used PVC pipe to make the arches. It's bendy to a certain extent and you can glue it into a joint using joint compound so that it doesn't slip out.
That’s a thought too, although as you can see, we just have metal T-posts for the uprights.
 
The not-yet-collapsed-but-thinking-about-it other arch. I doubt I’ll be doing tunnels again, and certainly not with this green fencing material. It’s been fun though:

30D15583-30B0-487F-973A-13E40F1AB59A.jpeg
 
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Looking for the wisdom of the crowd again here:

So if we go with schedule 80 galvanized metal conduit, 1 1/4” inch internal diameter, would two 8’ lengths going across with one center upright (and T connector) be enough?

Or should there be two center uprights, meaning 14’ overall run, divided into thirds?

Plus any other thoughts on material size etc.

Are the T connectors going to be long enough on the horizontal dimension to keep the horizontal conduit from being pulled out by the varying tension of the vines? Is there such a critter as screw-in conduit (and T connectors), or do we drill in screws for stability? As the plan is to take this down in October to move to the next bed in the following spring, I’d love to avoid screwing and unscrewing if possible.

^^^ I do see the obvious temptation to use that last sentence in the Other Tread. 🙄
 
Looking for the wisdom of the crowd again here:

So if we go with schedule 80 galvanized metal conduit, 1 1/4” inch internal diameter, would two 8’ lengths going across with one center upright (and T connector) be enough?

Or should there be two center uprights, meaning 14’ overall run, divided into thirds?

Plus any other thoughts on material size etc.

Are the T connectors going to be long enough on the horizontal dimension to keep the horizontal conduit from being pulled out by the varying tension of the vines? Is there such a critter as screw-in conduit (and T connectors), or do we drill in screws for stability? As the plan is to take this down in October to move to the next bed in the following spring, I’d love to avoid screwing and unscrewing if possible.

^^^ I do see the obvious temptation to use that last sentence in the Other Tread. 🙄

So if we go with schedule 80 galvanized metal conduit, 1 1/4” inch internal diameter, would two 8’ lengths going across with one center upright (and T connector) be enough? Or should there be two center uprights, meaning 14’ overall run, divided into thirds?
One center upright will be enough



53 Tomato Trellis Designs (Completely Free) | Epic Gardening

tomatoes.jpg
 
Looking for the wisdom of the crowd again here:

So if we go with schedule 80 galvanized metal conduit, 1 1/4” inch internal diameter, would two 8’ lengths going across with one center upright (and T connector) be enough?

Or should there be two center uprights, meaning 14’ overall run, divided into thirds?

Plus any other thoughts on material size etc.

Are the T connectors going to be long enough on the horizontal dimension to keep the horizontal conduit from being pulled out by the varying tension of the vines? Is there such a critter as screw-in conduit (and T connectors), or do we drill in screws for stability? As the plan is to take this down in October to move to the next bed in the following spring, I’d love to avoid screwing and unscrewing if possible.

^^^ I do see the obvious temptation to use that last sentence in the Other Tread. 🙄

Lowes has these
90 fitting.jpg

T fitting.jpg
 
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We did something similar several years ago when we were limited on space. We used PVC pipe to make the arches. It's bendy to a certain extent and you can glue it into a joint using joint compound so that it doesn't slip out.
And, of course, after dithering around about how to prop up the arches for the rest of the year (paralysis by analysis is a very real thing for me), PVC pipe was perfect.

It came in ten-foot lengths, and the ends fit perfectly in the grooves formed by the T-poles, anchored by screws at the bottoms and secured by wire near the top of the upright poles. The bent PVC (still can’t believe it’s so bendy) is semi-secured by trellis clips. We’ll see how they hold up and will replace them with wire if needed.

-and sure enough, the second arch collapsed while we we fixing the first. 🤪

Thanks!

1627236623268.jpeg
 
And, of course, after dithering around about how to prop up the arches for the rest of the year (paralysis by analysis is a very real thing for me), PVC pipe was perfect.

It came in ten-foot lengths, and the ends fit perfectly in the grooves formed by the T-poles, anchored by screws at the bottoms and secured by wire near the top of the upright poles. The bent PVC (still can’t believe it’s so bendy) is semi-secured by trellis clips. We’ll see how they hold up and will replace them with wire if needed.

-and sure enough, the second arch collapsed while we we fixing the first. 🤪

Thanks!

View attachment 382578
We supposed to be happy or sad bout all this? Nice tunnel cages!! Go PVC!!
 
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We supposed to be happy or sad bout all this? Nice tunnel cages!! Go PVC!!
Be happy! Be happy! We have arches again, and neither of us were injured in the process!

In my book, that’s success.

I do like the tunnel cages (good term!) for cukes and beans and small gourds. At one point I started thinking how they might work for tomatoes, using 4x4 or 4x6 hog wire, before I pulled myself together. But only if they were over a path (like these) for easy picking, if the tomatoes would be obliging enough to hang down through the openings. That would be a serious PITA if they stayed up on top.
 

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