Official Gramps' Memorial Eternal OT Thread

#67,579
#67,579
Orangeburst said:
You anti Scandinavian?
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I kinda reminds me of that lighthouse exterior coating….rinho coat ….or something stupid like that ….that a company was selling instead of painting a few years back. The problem is that it trapped moisture and rotted the houses siding.

That lifetime warranty wasn’t worth anything when the company disappeared.

I never use anything new till it has a chance to be proven effective
 
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#67,580
#67,580
Orangeslice13 said:
I kinda reminds me of that lighthouse exterior coating….rinho coat ….or something stupid like that ….that a company was selling instead of painting a few years back. The problem is that it trapped moisture and rotted the houses siding.

That lifetime warranty wasn’t worth anything when the company disappeared.

I never use anything new till it has a chance to be proven effective
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Is that like spray on bed liner?
 
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#67,582
#67,582
Orangeslice13 said:
It was.
It was a horrible idea
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It’s fairly effective on truck beds as long as the prep is done. Mine is 12 years old and just has weathered finish but no rust thru or peeling.

That sounds like a horrible idea on house siding that stuff has to breathe or I’d guess it has to mildew and eventually rot.
 
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#67,584
#67,584
NorthDallas40 said:
It’s fairly effective on truck beds as long as the prep is done. Mine is 12 years old and just has weathered finish but no rust thru or peeling.

That sounds like a horrible idea on house siding that stuff has to breathe or I’d guess it has to mildew and eventually rot.
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My boss/brother got his entire truck coated in dark grey rhino liner several years ago. It is actually nice looking and damn near scratch proof. Hes got about 100k in his truck though. Cummins with chip and exhaust making over 500hp etc. Despite being a 4wd 2500 that weighs as much as a tank, it is really fast. The diesel engines in pickups can make HUGE HP when you take off all the treehugger bullcrap....there are videos all over YouTube of them smoking high dollar sports cars at drag strips. Its crazy. They will outrun just about anything on 4 wheels except electrics like Teslas...as long as its only in a straight line lol...GO VOLS
 
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#67,586
#67,586
NorthDallas40 said:
It’s fairly effective on truck beds as long as the prep is done. Mine is 12 years old and just has weathered finish but no rust thru or peeling.

That sounds like a horrible idea on house siding that stuff has to breathe or I’d guess it has to mildew and eventually rot.
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its great, as long as everything is done literally perfectly. like Slice said, wood tends to rot behind that stuff, because there is always a hole somewhere.

similar issue with Zip systems and the like. the product works great, if installed 100% correct, and nothing ever moves afterwards. guess what? No one is perfect, and wood ALWAYS moves.
 
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#67,587
#67,587
LouderVol said:
its great, as long as everything is done literally perfectly. like Slice said, wood tends to rot behind that stuff, because there is always a hole somewhere.

similar issue with Zip systems and the like. the product works great, if installed 100% correct, and nothing ever moves afterwards. guess what? No one is perfect, and wood ALWAYS moves.
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Yeah we’ve got Zip on our house also. It’s just how the higher end custom homes are being built around here now. I tried to go over it prior to bricking and make sure all the joints were sealed but I’m a novice on this stuff.

I think even Hardie board has to breathe or it will mildew. Sealing it all up just sounds like a bad idea.
 
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#67,589
#67,589
NorthDallas40 said:
Yeah we’ve got Zip on our house also. It’s just how the higher end custom homes are being built around here now. I tried to go over it prior to bricking and make sure all the joints were sealed but I’m a novice on this stuff.

I think even Hardie board has to breathe or it will mildew. Sealing it all up just sounds like a bad idea.
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One end of our house faces almost due south (a little east of south), and after twenty years the wood siding was getting to be in bad shape, so we had it redone in Hardie plank. We liked that so well we had the back (facing mostly west) done with the same Hardie, and asked what it would cost to just go all the way around the second floor. I think the guy screwed up the quote, and we took them up on it immediately. So just the north facing side and front of the garage and the front porch (under a roof) haven't been redone, but the painted wood siding in those places is in great shape at 43 years. The only part that might really be improved would be the front of the garage, and I've got enough of the leftover Hardie board to handle that. I'm in no hurry to do it, but wives have a way of seeing everything as a priority ... especially if it means spending money.
 
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#67,590
#67,590
The AC problem was a "none of the above". Turns out I've had "visitors" under the house, and they've chewed up some of the flex return so there was a bunch of debris on the back side of the cooling coils. The intake and discharge are opposite between the original unit and this one, so the flex was to handle the crossover. I'll be getting quotes for the return and have to redo the access door to the crawlspace. Owning a house can be a PITA, but it does beat the alternatives.
 
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#67,593
#67,593
NorthDallas40 said:
Yeah we’ve got Zip on our house also. It’s just how the higher end custom homes are being built around here now. I tried to go over it prior to bricking and make sure all the joints were sealed but I’m a novice on this stuff.

I think even Hardie board has to breathe or it will mildew. Sealing it all up just sounds like a bad idea.
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The zip system is amazing if installed properly for most climates anyway. Being in texas I would bet youre in good shape. We install it all the time..1 of my projects was actually selected for their website photos a few years ago when the zip reps came to inspect my buildings for their warranty. Unfortunately its still so new that nobody knows yet what it looks like in 50 years etc though. I have been in a house sheeted with zip that was about to have its closing and it was so airtight that it was hard to push the front door shut without opening a window. I do not recommend that...everything needs to breathe a bit including the framing lumber the house is constructed with.

Tyvek is the alternative, and we install more of it than zip but not as much % of the time as 5 or 10 years ago. Tyvek works great too...but i recommend sealing the inside and outside corners of the exterior sheeting plywood with 6in or larger peel and stick flashing before installing the Tyvek paper. The reason being that siding installers tend to jam boards into the corners and put 1000 nails in them...as well as there always being a vertical seam in corners where the 2 sheets of plywood meet. Also...dont let installers use staple guns even to tack the tyvek up before nailing it off. Those penetrations are not sealed. Only use plastic buttoncaps which self seal when applied properly. All joints in the tyvek paper should be lapped 12inches in a "shingled" manner to prevent water from ever getting behind the tyvek. This shingling is especially important above windows and doors. Once the window/door is installed and flashed, the tyvek flap above them needs to be folded back down over the peel and stick flashing and then taped with tyvek tape.

Anyway...i have the latest install specs for both types of moisture protection systems if yall need em. Or you can just go to the zip or dupont websites and download them. Hope this helps
 
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#67,597
#67,597
Orangeburst said:
Big Game Saturday..after last year game and Florida, really need the ju ju back
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We just have to blitz the heck out of Rattler and bring pressure. They are a one-dimensional offense due to their terrible O line. If we are unable to get to Rattler it’s going to be a long night because our secondary will get eaten alive.
 
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