What oil(and filter) do you use?

#153
#153
castrol 10w 40 and according to weather I'm at the advance or auto zone as according to the filter :p) for my old 86 S10 with a mighty 2.5 motor,rebuilt motor i should say :)
 
#154
#154
governmentmule said:
castrol 10w 40 and according to weather I'm at the advance or auto zone as according to the filter :p) for my old 86 S10 with a mighty 2.5 motor,rebuilt motor i should say :)
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I don't remember a 2.5 from GM. They built the 4.3 and 2.8 during time. 2.8's were bad about blowing head gaskets.
4.3 is a very good engine though.

Love to know more on the 2.5's though
 
#155
#155
Nerd-Vol said:
I want to know how often folks are checking their oil levels. I check at every other fill up. Turbos tend to burn a decent amount of oil, so I like to keep on top of it.
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Yah, I need to check my level more often. My Accord burns off more than I thought.
 
#156
#156
bamacheats said:
How freakin tight are you guys screwing your filters on? I've never had difficulty removing a filter.
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I had a 98 Ford Ranger that was a beech removing the filter every single time, starting with the filter installed on the assembly line. Always hand tightened filter, didn't matter. Screwdriver through filter was only way to get it off. Only vehicle I've ever had that's had that problem.
 
#158
#158
Not reading the whole thread, but I do have some experience under my belt with this topic, and it's oft-discussed by actual mechanics and automotive enthusiasts who are more than just weekend warriors.

Generally speaking, expensive oils are all just marketing gimmicks. I've seen and worked on track cars, serious-business SCCA stuff, drag, drift, etc. and had no issues with just regular corner store oil, as long as it's the proper weight. Just don't be a dope, and take a look at it from time to time. As far as filters, OEM is the best 90% of the time.
 
#159
#159
milohimself said:
Not reading the whole thread, but I do have some experience under my belt with this topic, and it's oft-discussed by actual mechanics and automotive enthusiasts who are more than just weekend warriors.

Generally speaking, expensive oils are all just marketing gimmicks. I've seen and worked on track cars, serious-business SCCA stuff, drag, drift, etc. and had no issues with just regular corner store oil, as long as it's the proper weight. Just don't be a dope, and take a look at it from time to time. As far as filters, OEM is the best 90% of the time.
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On track prepped cars aren't you changing the oil more frequently?
 
#160
#160
Not to the point where 10x more/quart is worth it for Royal Purple. Durability is the only difference, which is generally negligible, but in the end it's all just a cost-benefit analysis. All the track guys I know change prior to events anyhow. Enduro is the only exception I can think of where this might make a difference.
 
#161
#161
milohimself said:
Not reading the whole thread, but I do have some experience under my belt with this topic, and it's oft-discussed by actual mechanics and automotive enthusiasts who are more than just weekend warriors.

Generally speaking, expensive oils are all just marketing gimmicks. I've seen and worked on track cars, serious-business SCCA stuff, drag, drift, etc. and had no issues with just regular corner store oil, as long as it's the proper weight. Just don't be a dope, and take a look at it from time to time. As far as filters, OEM is the best 90% of the time.
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As a former GM tech I use to believe the same too, till I started sending off oil samples and saw a remarkable difference in engine protection via metal shavings In the oil.
 
#162
#162
Every car I've owned (except my new one which only has ~18k miles on it) has had a magnetic drain plug. My roommate of a couple years actually had a microscope, and I got curious about it, pressed samples between glass and looked at it.

Oil is oil is oil. The only thing more money gets you is a little more time between oil changes, and whether or not its worth the cost is up to you.

Another note, and I think it's just due to overweighting or something, but I've seen many an engine go out on Mobil 1, and other guys have better luck if they go up an extra weight. Dunno if that's the case anymore, but there you have it.

I've put 40-50k miles, much hard driving included, on multiple turbo applications, 200-500whp, .5BAR-2BAR, with regular Castrol conventional (it's typically the cheapest available at the shop near my house) with zero issues.
 
#163
#163
milohimself said:
Every car I've owned (except my new one which only has ~18k miles on it) has had a magnetic drain plug. My roommate of a couple years actually had a microscope, and I got curious about it, pressed samples between glass and looked at it.

Oil is oil is oil. The only thing more money gets you is a little more time between oil changes, and whether or not its worth the cost is up to you.

Another note, and I think it's just due to overweighting or something, but I've seen many an engine go out on Mobil 1, and other guys have better luck if they go up an extra weight. Dunno if that's the case anymore, but there you have it.

I've put 40-50k miles, much hard driving included, on multiple turbo applications, 200-500whp, .5BAR-2BAR, with regular Castrol conventional (it's typically the cheapest available at the shop near my house) with zero issues.
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Out of curiosity do you run the 1/4 mile?
Circle track?

Castrol makes a very good oil.
Ran castrol synthetic for years in my gen 2 lightning.
 
#164
#164
Mostly drifting and autox, I've done one drag session each with two of my cars, one 1989 Nissan 240SX, basic SR20 w/ t25 turned up to 12psi (IIRC) putting down maybe 230hp/tq at the wheels, pretty stripped out, 2way LSD, ran low/mid 14's I think.

Other was 1990 Toyota Cressida 1JZ single turbo ran mid-12's but that was with some suspension and wiring issues that got fixed up later, wound up getting ~400whp
 
#165
#165
milohimself said:
Mostly drifting and autox, I've done one drag session each with two of my cars, one 1989 Nissan 240SX, basic SR20 w/ t25 turned up to 12psi (IIRC) putting down maybe 230hp/tq at the wheels, pretty stripped out, 2way LSD, ran low/mid 14's I think.

Other was 1990 Toyota Cressida 1JZ single turbo ran mid-12's but that was with some suspension and wiring issues that got fixed up later, wound up getting ~400whp
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Wow. Nice numbers
 
#166
#166
I will probably change my oil in a day or 2 and was wanting to try a k&n filter. The called filter is the HP-1015 or the PS-1015 filter. I have a 1997 Subaru Legacy Outback 2.5L. It has 193,594 miles. I am looking to run 10w40 maxlife with the hp k&n filter. My question is would it be acceptable to run 10w40 through that type of filter? I am not a car guru, but I prefer to change my own oil and thought I would give this filter a try.
 
#167
#167
Obsessed said:
What kind of car?

Generally turbo's don't cause more oil consumption if oil is not allowed to break down.

Btw even if you change your oil. Park car for 6 months. It has to be changed again.

Engine oil shelf life is only 6 months as a general rule. (Use to be only 3 months)
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you mean oil that's been in the ground a million years, is only good for 6 months when you put it in an engine block :)
 
#168
#168
vol_in_ar said:
you mean oil that's been in the ground a million years, is only good for 6 months when you put it in an engine block :)
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Lol. Yeah. It's a conspiracy I tell you.
They put stuff in it so it breaks down and you have to buy more.
Lol
 
#169
#169
blupotato said:
I will probably change my oil in a day or 2 and was wanting to try a k&n filter. The called filter is the HP-1015 or the PS-1015 filter. I have a 1997 Subaru Legacy Outback 2.5L. It has 193,594 miles. I am looking to run 10w40 maxlife with the hp k&n filter. My question is would it be acceptable to run 10w40 through that type of filter? I am not a car guru, but I prefer to change my own oil and thought I would give this filter a try.
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It's fine. What type of oil are you planning on running? Regular, synthetic , or a mix of the two?
 
#170
#170
Obsessed said:
It's fine. What type of oil are you planning on running? Regular, synthetic , or a mix of the two?
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Can I even run synthetic on this old of a motor? I am not that savvy when it comes to oil knowledge. Never really considered the advantages/disadvantages until now. If I can safely run synthetic I would be open to giving it a try as long as it would not hurt the motor.
 
#171
#171
IIRC, rule of thumb is once a motor has seen conventional then it should only continue to get that, unless it gets a rebuild.

It might be the other way though.
 
#172
#172
blupotato said:
Can I even run synthetic on this old of a motor? I am not that savvy when it comes to oil knowledge. Never really considered the advantages/disadvantages until now. If I can safely run synthetic I would be open to giving it a try as long as it would not hurt the motor.
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A lot of people wouldn't suggest it
 
#173
#173
blupotato said:
Can I even run synthetic on this old of a motor? I am not that savvy when it comes to oil knowledge. Never really considered the advantages/disadvantages until now. If I can safely run synthetic I would be open to giving it a try as long as it would not hurt the motor.
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Yes you can. But once you start using synthetic you have to continue using it.

Synthetic in my opinion is the only way to go especially with higher mileage vehicles.

But as you can see motor oil is like politics. Every one has there own view.
 
#174
#174
From Popular Mechanics


Motor Oil: Synthetic vs. Non-Synthetic
BY MIKE ALLEN

Q: After a recent trip to two major auto parts dealers for oil (5W 30), I realized synthetic oil is slowly replacing nonsynthetic on the display shelves. The problem is, I'm getting conflicting information about synthetic oil. One store attendant told me I shouldn't go back to regular oil after changing to synthetic. Then he said it would be okay to add a quart of regular oil to synthetic, if I needed to top up. Another clerk said I should never mix the two. At a different store, the employee said it didn't matter if I used synthetic and then later replaced it with regular oil.

A: Early synthetics got a bad reputation for leaking. This was because, despite the claims of the oil manufacturers, the seal-swell characteristics of the new synthetics were different from those of the mineral oils they replaced. If the seal-swell rate was lower, the seals shrank and oil leaked from crankshaft seals and rocker cover seals. If the rate was higher, the seals swelled a little extra and the engine was tight. Then if the owner changed back to mineral oil, or added a quart when no synthetic was to be had, things got really bad. The crank seals had become worn, in their turgid state, and then relaxed. The valve cover seals were compressed when swelled, and when the different oil was added, everything leaked like, well, an old English sports car.

Fortunately, the situation has improved; you should have no problem switching back and forth. Adding a quart of mineral oil to a crankcase full of synthetic will be fine. Read the fine print -- a lot of the "synthetics" on the market are blends containing a substantial proportion of mineral oil.
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#175
#175
Nerd-Vol said:
From Popular Mechanics
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Great find nerd. The synthetic will leave a slight film over the engine components to maintain protection as well.

But with new oil tech coming out its really incredible what a modern oil can do....
 
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