Electric Vehicles

You can put in what is commonly referred to as a dryer electrical socket, its 240 volts and has a NEMA 14-50 receptacle. This is what your dryer plugs into. Likely also your oven.

With a Tesla Model 3 this makes sense because the amperage limit of the Model 3 is such that you would not get any faster charge from the Tesla wall mount. But the Model Y has a higher amperage, and so charges faster with the wall mounted charger.

If you ever investigate this check out youtube (or even the blog communities) because many people say, well, if you are charging overnight the difference between the NEMA 14-50 plate and the wall mount charger is negligible. And, some people have successfully put in a splitter at the dryer location so they can alternately use the dryer or charge the car. Also true, I suppose, though I would not try it myself just being unfamiliar with the whole thing and if i did it I have to run the charging cable from the dryer location to the car.

But here's the point I think for most people: the cost to put in the NEMA 14-50 receptacle is going to be about $1250 to $1300 for me. The wall mount, which is easy to identify and popular, is $1500. The difference in the scheme of things is negligible so for average Model Y users like myself, the wall mount is usually best.
What breaker size does the wall charger use? Doc said #6 wire which is max 60A. His may be different though.
 
You can put in what is commonly referred to as a dryer electrical socket, its 240 volts and has a NEMA 14-50 receptacle. This is what your dryer plugs into. Likely also your oven.

With a Tesla Model 3 this makes sense because the amperage limit of the Model 3 is such that you would not get any faster charge from the Tesla wall mount. But the Model Y has a higher amperage, and so charges faster with the wall mounted charger.

If you ever investigate this check out youtube (or even the blog communities) because many people say, well, if you are charging overnight the difference between the NEMA 14-50 plate and the wall mount charger is negligible. And, some people have successfully put in a splitter at the dryer location so they can alternately use the dryer or charge the car. Also true, I suppose, though I would not try it myself just being unfamiliar with the whole thing and if i did it I have to run the charging cable from the dryer location to the car.

But here's the point I think for most people: the cost to put in the NEMA 14-50 receptacle is going to be about $1250 to $1300 for me. The wall mount, which is easy to identify and popular, is $1500. The difference in the scheme of things is negligible so for average Model Y users like myself, the wall mount is usually best.
Look at you quoting the national electric code on standard 240VAC plugs! 😀

Yeah there are two common 240VAC plugs. The “dryer plug” is one and there’s one more. The day difference is one plug is 240VAC only with three prongs and the other is 120/240VAC and is a four prong. I don’t do it enough to keep the NEMA styles committed to memory
 
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Look at you quoting the national electric code on standard 240VAC plugs! 😀

Yeah there are two common 240VAC plugs. The “dryer plug” is one and there’s one more. The day difference is one plug is 240VAC only with three prongs and the other is 120/240VAC and is a four prong. I don’t do it enough to keep the NEMA styles committed to memory
All new 240V plugs are 4 wire. They utilize the neutral where they didn't in the past (3 wire). Dryer plugs are 4 wire, 240V, 30A. Range/stove plugs are 4 wire, 240V, 60A. You need to run #6 wire for the 60A and #10 wire for the 30A.
 
Look at you quoting the national electric code on standard 240VAC plugs! 😀

Yeah there are two common 240VAC plugs. The “dryer plug” is one and there’s one more. The day difference is one plug is 240VAC only with three prongs and the other is 120/240VAC and is a four prong. I don’t do it enough to keep the NEMA styles committed to memory


I do not in any way, shape, or form claim to know the technical stuff. Just been reading and watching tons of youtube videos on this and other EV-related topics. I am bound to make mistakes but heck, if other people have done this conversion, I figure even I can't screw it up too bad.
 
I was trimming shrubs few weeks ago and sliced thru the extension chord. Crap..got to run to Ace. Think the old one is 25’ so pick up a medium duty 25’. Get back and too short to reach furthest bush. Crap back to Ace. Pick up 50’ light duty and finish and then realize a week later it doesn’t even have a ground.

Moral of the story. I am a scatterbrain. Hog is correct. I shouldn’t think.
 
All new 240V plugs are 4 wire. They utilize the neutral where they didn't in the past (3 wire). Dryer plugs are 4 wire, 240V, 30A. Range/stove plugs are 4 wire, 240V, 60A. You need to run #6 wire for the 60A and #10 wire for the 30A.

Do you use the same 50amp connections/plugs in your widgets as rvs use?
 
All new 240V plugs are 4 wire. They utilize the neutral where they didn't in the past (3 wire). Dryer plugs are 4 wire, 240V, 30A. Range/stove plugs are 4 wire, 240V, 60A. You need to run #6 wire for the 60A and #10 wire for the 30A.
Yep. Having the neutral available for return allows local 120VAC usage. As I’m sure you’re aware the green chassis while electrically tied in the load center is not allowed to intentionally carry return current it is safety/bonding.

And yeah the NEMA 30A and 60A are different plug styles for sure. Which likewise specify the code correct conduit gauge to run to them.

I have 60A four wire plugs in my shop for my Miller welder.
 
I do not in any way, shape, or form claim to know the technical stuff. Just been reading and watching tons of youtube videos on this and other EV-related topics. I am bound to make mistakes but heck, if other people have done this conversion, I figure even I can't screw it up too bad.
Well your reading worked you got it right.
 
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Yep. Having the neutral available for return allows local 120VAC usage. As I’m sure you’re aware the green chassis while electrically tied in the load center is not allowed to intentionally carry return current it is safety/bonding.

And yeah the NEMA 30A and 60A are different plug styles for sure. Which likewise specify the code correct conduit gauge to run to them.

I have 60A four wire plugs in my shop for my Miller welder.
I have about 10 60A 240V for my millers, thermal arc, plasma, and to plug the products into. We use the marine plugs for all to keep it simple. Which Miller do you have?
 
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I have about 10 60A 240V for my millers, thermal arc, plasma, and to plug the products into. We use the marine plugs for all to keep it simple. Which Miller do you have?
Mine is about 20 years old. All analog no digital control and discrete taps on the transformer voltage pickoffs. Millermatic 210 I believe? With dual bottle built in trolley and aluminum spool gun in addition to the mild steel MIG gun.

I don’t do this stuff enough to keep the NEMA specs and plugs in memory. When I need it I know where to go look. I’d guess you deal with this almost daily in your boat business.
 
You can put in what is commonly referred to as a dryer electrical socket, its 240 volts and has a NEMA 14-50 receptacle. This is what your dryer plugs into. Likely also your oven.

With a Tesla Model 3 this makes sense because the amperage limit of the Model 3 is such that you would not get any faster charge from the Tesla wall mount. But the Model Y has a higher amperage, and so charges faster with the wall mounted charger

If you ever investigate this check out youtube (or even the blog communities) because many people say, well, if you are charging overnight the difference between the NEMA 14-50 plate and the wall mount charger is negligible. And, some people have successfully put in a splitter at the dryer location so they can alternately use the dryer or charge the car. Also true, I suppose, though I would not try it myself just being unfamiliar with the whole thing and if i did it I have to run the charging cable from the dryer location to the car.

But here's the point I think for most people: the cost to put in the NEMA 14-50 receptacle is going to be about $1250 to $1300 for me. The wall mount, which is easy to identify and popular, is $1500. The difference in the scheme of things is negligible so for average Model Y users like myself, the wall mount is usually best.
Do you have a breaker box in your garage with available space (2 slots) for a 60A connection? If so, the wiring/ install of the T charger is very simple and will run you about $200-250 in materials (breaker, wire, conduit, and terminal boxes) unless you are making a much longer run than I have. I am happy to walk you through how I did it. Took my buddy and I a little over an hour and looks very clean.
 
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Mine is about 20 years old. All analog no digital control and discrete taps on the transformer voltage pickoffs. Millermatic 210 I believe? With dual bottle built in trolley and aluminum spool gun in addition to the mild steel MIG gun.

I don’t do this stuff enough to keep the NEMA specs and plugs in memory. When I need it I know where to go look. I’d guess you deal with this almost daily in your boat business.
I have a machine similar to yours, about the same age. It's a Millermatic 250. It's set up for Aluminum exclusively with the Push/Pull gun. I also have a Millermatic 350P Pulse Mig with the push/pull gun. I also have a Miller 350 CC/CV with a wire feeder on top that's also push/pull. We also have a Miller Syncrowave 250 TIG Runner with water cooler, a ThermalARC 350P pulse tig with water cooler.

We have another TIG that my guys like better than any of them. It's one I was forced to pick up during Covid because of lack of availability of other machines. It was recommended by a former employee that had used one at another job. It's an Everlast 325 Inverter welder with water cooler. It's a Chinese import but it works great. Where a similar welder with Miller was going to be close to if not over $11K, this one was delivered to my shop for around $3K. It came with everthing you needed too including both wet and dry torches. Foot pedal and button control, gas valve and hose as well a leads to stick weld with. The torches were crap but they replaced them during warranty. I've since upgraded the torch to Weldcraft. The biggest complaint is that the cooling fan isn't thermostatically controlled but runs all the time - it's a little loud. Check them out if you are ever in need of anything. We're probably buying one of their plasma cutters for a plasma table we are building.
 
I have a machine similar to yours, about the same age. It's a Millermatic 250. It's set up for Aluminum exclusively with the Push/Pull gun. I also have a Millermatic 350P Pulse Mig with the push/pull gun. I also have a Miller 350 CC/CV with a wire feeder on top that's also push/pull. We also have a Miller Syncrowave 250 TIG Runner with water cooler, a ThermalARC 350P pulse tig with water cooler.

We have another TIG that my guys like better than any of them. It's one I was forced to pick up during Covid because of lack of availability of other machines. It was recommended by a former employee that had used one at another job. It's an Everlast 325 Inverter welder with water cooler. It's a Chinese import but it works great. Where a similar welder with Miller was going to be close to if not over $11K, this one was delivered to my shop for around $3K. It came with everthing you needed too including both wet and dry torches. Foot pedal and button control, gas valve and hose as well a leads to stick weld with. The torches were crap but they replaced them during warranty. I've since upgraded the torch to Weldcraft. The biggest complaint is that the cooling fan isn't thermostatically controlled but runs all the time - it's a little loud. Check them out if you are ever in need of anything. We're probably buying one of their plasma cutters for a plasma table we are building.
I’ve got a Hobart plasma cutter that can sever 3/8” mild steel but it’s an ugly cut. I don’t really ever work with anything thicker than 1/4” and normally 1/8” and it works fine on that. For stuff that I really don’t care too much about I’ve got a cheap Chinese flux core wire welder that I use on our fence and stuff like that. For a simple hobby shop I’ve got about all I need except I need to put in a two stage air tank then I’ll be set.

It’s rare honestly that I bust out the Miller unless I really care about how it looks and the material is heavy enough to handle it. I’m not that great a welder and I struggle on the thinner stuff
 
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I have a machine similar to yours, about the same age. It's a Millermatic 250. It's set up for Aluminum exclusively with the Push/Pull gun. I also have a Millermatic 350P Pulse Mig with the push/pull gun. I also have a Miller 350 CC/CV with a wire feeder on top that's also push/pull. We also have a Miller Syncrowave 250 TIG Runner with water cooler, a ThermalARC 350P pulse tig with water cooler.

We have another TIG that my guys like better than any of them. It's one I was forced to pick up during Covid because of lack of availability of other machines. It was recommended by a former employee that had used one at another job. It's an Everlast 325 Inverter welder with water cooler. It's a Chinese import but it works great. Where a similar welder with Miller was going to be close to if not over $11K, this one was delivered to my shop for around $3K. It came with everthing you needed too including both wet and dry torches. Foot pedal and button control, gas valve and hose as well a leads to stick weld with. The torches were crap but they replaced them during warranty. I've since upgraded the torch to Weldcraft. The biggest complaint is that the cooling fan isn't thermostatically controlled but runs all the time - it's a little loud. Check them out if you are ever in need of anything. We're probably buying one of their plasma cutters for a plasma table we are building.

If I remember correctly, you build your widgets on tubes instead of hulls? Do you roll your own toons?
 
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If I remember correctly, you build your widgets on tubes instead of hulls? Do you roll your own toons?
That's the only thing we don't do. I have a guy at a small shop that rolls them and delivers them. I'll find a picture and post it.
 
Do you have a breaker box in your garage with available space (2 slots) for a 60A connection? If so, the wiring/ install of the T charger is very simple and will run you about $200-250 in materials (breaker, wire, conduit, and terminal boxes) unless you are making a much longer run than I have. I am happy to walk you through how I did it. Took my buddy and I a little over an hour and looks very clean.


Thanks very much, but I have already paid the electrician and have the appointment. Plus, I don't trust my ability to do it, even if we zoomed it and you walked me through it step by step. Know that I appreciate the generosity of your offer!
 

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